850 and 998 rods are same dimensions, except the 850 has a pinch bolt little end.
You use 850 thrust bearings on the centre main, as 998/1098 ones are too wide to fit.

If you are building it to rev, use 998/1098 main bearings (shorter, but better material), and get the block line bored for cam bearings.
Lighten the rods and fit ARP bolts or socket head grade 12 capscrews, instead of the stock hex bolts. See Vizard's yellow book.
Bin all the rod locktabs and the main bearing ones too. If you overrev it and they compress, your bolts are now loose.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Line boring for cam bearings... exxy to get done?

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No idea these days, sorry, ask an engine reco shop.

<edit> I once worked for Acra Bores in Sydney but it was 40 years ago...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I line bored my 850 block for cam bearings & mains when i worked for RPM so you can send it there, Orger engines or Crankshaft rebuilders will also be able to help you.

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Have a Nice Day.
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That was my next topic.

Thanks for all the info, so far, Kev.



Any hints on price, tiger?

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I am taking my P76 engine bits to C/R next week, ill find out some costs for you, cant remember how much the last one cost, i think it was around $300, but thats just a wild guess.

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So does this mean an Ausmini trip to speedweek next year?

I'm in for sure.

Worlds fastest Morris 1100 anyone?

Madmorrie

I'll be happy if the Moke if finished by March 2010. Maybe 2011 speedweek.

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I'd probably have to remove the sunvisor, i think.

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Ta.. wait.. that was for line boring cam bearings and the 3 mains and caps, yeah?

So what are you having done to the 76 block?

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yes, ill get a current price to have cam bearings & main bearings line bored in an 850 block.
The P76 engine is having the crank & rods resized & bore & hone for the new pistons & balance.

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Is main bearing line boring necessary?

Or do you only need that if you don't have the matching caps?

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If it's aligned OK and sizes right, no need to line bore the mains...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

All A series engines have irregularitys in the main bearing tunnels, just due to the massive production of blocks & the way no.3 main cap is offset clamped. Most of the time they are ok but if you are building a proper "race" engine part of the blueprinting process is to get all the oil clearences spot on, which meens all the tunnels should be excactly the same size. The bearings are then fitted to the block & the caps torqued to spec & the size of the fitted bearing is measured, the crankshaft can then be ground to suit. The only exception is the last of the producton A+WFM blocks (they were line honed at the factory) are usually ok.

Unless you are going to build a full race 850 engine, all you will need to do is to have the 2 cam bearing tunnels line bored, the mains will be ok.

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Here we are an 850 capable of 100mph in 27 seconds

Sorry no pics of the engine, bonnet was shut

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