Hey Mowog.

If you'd like a nice Rover auto... see Steve O'Malley at Brickworx Racing on South Road, Edwardstown.

I'm sure you know quite a bit about minis... so i wont go into detail... unless you want me to

Hi Will. Thanks for the advice, but 've been getting my gear from Steve for years. I just thought that anyone converting an auto block to manual box might like to offload the auto bits they don't want at a fair price, would help keep mine going as long as possible, as cheap as possible.

UPDATE re late Rover Mini automatic block-
Doogie brought one round today.
These don't have the oil filter mounting pad angled drilling which goes up into the main oil gallery on all A series & early A+ manual blocks (and all the A series auto blocks have too).
I cannot do these A+ auto ones with my equipment.
It isn't impossible to do, but really needs a mill with tilting head and careful jigging, or preferably a CNC mill. There is not much room for error here.....

So hardly worth doing, it's far easier to go find a manual block or an early auto one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Bright idea...
Why not remove the front plug from the main oil gallery,
drill and tap it 3/8 BSP thread,
screw a 1/2 x 3/8 BSP elbow in,
then connect a remote spin-on oil filter kit to it.
You could probably bolt it to the front of the block.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Note- all the preceding discussion assumes you are converting a 1275 automatic block.

re converting a 998 (or the rare 1098) automatic block to manual:
You do NOT need to fit an oil pump spacer.
The existing depth of the block recess is all the same on these smallbores, whether it is auto or manual.
And, the oilway to be drilled deeper from relief valve to the pump's outlet is also in the same place longitudinally on both auto and manual blocks.

However with no spacer, you must use a smallbore oil pump- either pin drive or slot drive.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Please note that the pics in this thread will disappear soon as I am changing ISP from Exetel to Bigpond cable.
When I find somewhere to re-host them all, I will edit the pic links.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Not a bad thought ....
I'm up for it!!

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Since writing that years ago I checked it out with a converter rebuilder. He says there is f/all you can do to them, due to design.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Dang ! Dr you know of any big bore autos getting around ? Have the 998 which I'm happy with for the moment but in the future would be nice to drop in something a little more sprightly hopefully something that will sit straight on the autobox. Is that even possible?

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

A 1275 (Morris 1100S auto or 1300 auto) drops straight on. Has to be an auto block though, not a manual.
You will need the 1275 auto primary gear, otherwise it's pretty much a straight swap.
A Morris 1100 auto will fit too, but they are rarer.

You can bore and stroke these motors, Grieg Malaure @ Mini Classic has a 1430 in his wife's `matic. It made ~112HP at the crank when built.
Don't fit a big duration cam though or it'll struggle off the line.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Aha ! I'm getting all tingly ..

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Just found a complete 1300 near me ....
Should be same box too right ? Might be able to do a straight swap...

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Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Yeah it'll swap in, but you need to use the front engine mount bracket off your `matic. And, oxy cut the 1300's mounts off the engine plate to give more room.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I''ve got a 1275 auto out of a rover mini. PLanning on just freshening it up a little so it doesnt leak oil. Put it on. no rebuild on motor or box probably. then I'll put some $$$$ aside and get it rebuilt when its tired. probably bore it out a little.

everyone I've spoken to said the auto boxes are hopeless in regards to tuning lol. I'm better off just having a better motor. Hopefully the rover auto goes 110kph atleast lol

I had another MiniMatic with a Morris 1300 auto in it (and twin HS2 carbs). The diff ratio in them was a 3.26, but as the drop gears are 1.15:1, the EFFECTIVE diff ratio (engine to wheels) is 3.76:1. Gives ~14.7 MPH/1000rpm if using 10" Mini wheels.
The PO got around this by fitting Hillman Imp 12" wheels and Morris 1300 size tyres. It looked weird, but it helped the gearing.
I think the Rover autos are taller geared, but I have no data.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.