What sort of head is it? 12G202?

dunno gimme a sec and i'll tell you

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12a1456
also have a 12g202 out there but will need a clean up
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

If I'm not wrong 12A1456 is a 998 head. In that case I'll probably keep with one of the heads I have lying round here. Saves on postage that way, at least!

Thanks anyway mate.

no worries i would have met you down around marualan if would help
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Kevin I have a question for you. It was my understanding from some literature I had read that the 998 pollution control heads came in two varieties - one with standard valves and one with 1.156" inlets (hence why I previously refered to it as a 12G202).

Could you shed some light on this? I have become slightly dubious about those sources as I was working on my smog head today, and found that it doesn't have squared inlets like a 202. Don't know the inlet valve size, but it looks similar to the size on my other 850 head.

Unfortunately this means both my spare heads are of the 998 variety and therefore would be a step backwards performance wise. Course I desperately need my car back so who knows....

Anto.

As far as I know there are 2 pollution heads only- one for the 998 and one for the 1275 (12G1316).

the 1098 was finished in Oz around 1974-5, the 998's smog head came in around 1977 with the air pump etc. So 1098 Minis didn't get the smog head- dunno about Mokes.

The 998 smog head was basically just a 12A1456 with the air injection ports added. Same 1.090" inlet valves and little round inlet ports. 12G202 head (1098) had square ones with 1.156" inlets.

The 12G1316 smog head was used on 1275LS etc. Pretty much just a (Morris 1100S) 12G940 head with air injection ports added. Valves were 1.312"/1.156".

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah I think I was misinformed on the subject. My smog head is definately a 998 head! Don't know how much slower my Mini would go with a 998 affair instead of a 12G202, but I might have to for the moment, and rebuild a 12G202 in my spare time (with some porting perhaps). It's too inconvenient without my car!

It will have good torque down low..

Long I used to put 1098 crank/rods/pistons into modified 850 blocks- stock 850 cam and head. No good up high but would `climb trees' down low..

Just throw it on while you do your 202 up. PM me for some ideas...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Okay guys I'm at my wits end! I have replaced the head gasket, the problem was still there. So I figure the head is cracked. So I have replaced that too. The symptoms are still there! Aaargh!

The symptoms lie in the cooling system. With the engine running and the radiator cap off, the coolant frothes up, bubbles etc, in relation to engine RPM. I can see no signs of water in the oil or oil in the water. The motor runs fine, same as it always has. I tried dumping the coolant and just using water and as you'd expect that had nil effect. Unfortunately I couldn't get my temp guage back in (coz it's a cheap piece of crap) so I don't know engine temp, however the coolant was hot and you could see a bit of steam (not boiling I don't think).

Any ideas? Could it be some other sort of problem - not a cylinder head problem. Maybe an air leak in the cooling system, or the water pump has had it? We did a little check by blocking the exhaust pipe and watching the coolant but it didn't make a difference (I do have an exhaust leak though).

Sorry for the long message but this is killing me!

Cheers,
Anto.

Sorry to bear bad news, but- may be a crack in the block, somewhere. I've seen 1098s crack between 1&2 or 3&4 cylinders, right at the top.

Or maybe the block is not real flat- did you check that?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmm well this problem gets weirder! My brother came round to have a look and when I went to show him the symptoms they weren't there anymore!
I don't know what the deal is, it *seems* fine now. Tomorrow I'm going to flush out the radiator, and connect a temp gauge up to see what's going on and keep an eye on it, see what happens.

My brother suggested maybe the frothing/foaming at first could have been air bleeding out of the system since I had put a new head on. The froth did seem a bit drastic though - lime milkshake anyone? Well I'll report back tomorrow on how it is!

If it's not blowing any water out or running hot it may not be a big deal- perhaps just the new head gasket settling in. Did you retighten it yet?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's sort of the way I was thinking. Haven't retorqued it yet, as I've only driven it round the block. How tight would you recommend I torque them, and how long should I leave it until I do? I see different torque settings depending on where I look.

If it's an Oz 1098 with BOLTS they should be 50 Lb/Ft. If studs & nuts, 40 Lb/Ft.
Reason bolts have higher torque is, they are coarser thread than the nuts- it takes more torque to get the same stretch.

Maybe you didn't do them tight enough...

BTW undo each bolt 1/4 turn, when COLD, and retighten, do one at a time. Starting in the middle front as per book.
I'd do it now and recheck in a couple of weeks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.