Yeah at least you can get at the turbo, might not even have to hack half the car apart to fit it either!
And lotsa nice `Bling...'

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

What distributor do you have now?
You are going to have to tune it once it is running, only then can you play with plugs, timing etc....
Start off standard and see how it goes

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Miniworx Centre 0883741299
Sooperdooperminicooperexpertengineering
Online BMW Mini Shop

You cant even see where the exhuast manifold is on that setup! It looks shiny but I imagine it would generate a lot of heat in the engine bay.

I forgot to ask if the T2 was internally gated? Any ideas?

The dizzy is standard I think, Im not really sure. Ill get it up and running first then Ill fiddle with that stuff.

Meanwhile I just purchased an LSD to fit to my falcon so no more loss of traction on boost!! Woot!

yep the T2 is internally gated

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Good. That makes things easier. If my GT3540 doesnt need an external gate then a T2 shouldnt either.

Look forward to getting it so I can get started.

Thanks mate,
Dan

Personally, from the research ive done, the best seems a GT25R or GT28R......both of these suckers on a 1275 would do very nicely Even a GT17 would work, but i think would be a tad small and eventually run out of puff.....need space for the potential....

Personally, Im planning on using a Hitachi turbo....I bought a hybrid RHB5 turbo which seems in pretty good condition. It uses the compressor housing off a mazda familia with an exhaust housing of a charade...

I have a metro turbo carn and plenum sitting here, and from all accounts getting your hand on at least a metro turbo carb will make it the easiest option. A plenum can be fabricated. They are a rare beastie these days aswell.....last one i saw on EBAY UK went for over 250 pounds

No one has seemed to mention whether or not you've strengthened the engine internals, headwork etc...all something to think about

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

gt25r would be great but try to get one for under $1800

I think he wants to do it on the cheap, hence why i said a t2 manifold, he can always go a t25 if the t2 runs out of puff.

A GT17 would probably be perfect for it (was going to run one on mine but seals were stuffed) they will boost hell fast ( i mean under 2000rpm) and hold 20psi with ease.

For my engine a gt25r would be awsome, anyone want to donate one??

Got a t25g on mine at the moment (late model sr20) and it is holding boost fine, little laggy, but it only lags once then your in boost the rest of the time

RHB5 are a good turbo, just expensive to rebuild, and there arnt that many around if you need another. Will suit a hot 1300cc nicely, make sure you drop your compression!!

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Brads right, this will be an el cheapo build. The falcon will remain the fast daily driver. Im looking at 12's with it soon.

The whole build will be done in the shed and as cheap as possible. Im not looking for huge power from it. Ill be happy with 70-80hp to be honest. This is more about turboing the mini just for something to do. It will be practise before my mate's torana is ready for more horsepower.

Unless I go a full on engine conversion I know Im not going to have a 13-14 second mini. I just want something a little faster than a stock 1275. Something that will smoke the tyres wont go astray either.

And I have a spare engine and box now too so breaking things is not a worry.

A mob at summernats had a show special for brand new gt28R's for $1200....if i had the cash i would of bought the mofo!

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

you should easily be able to make more then 70-80hp I would think...

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68matic: "i havent seen much head in my life "

This is the setup on our car:-
Engine - 1330 with Hepolite pistons & rings 60 thou oversize, Kent 731 cam, Kent Vernier timing gear, lightened and balanced, centre main bearing cap, shortened S rods to reduce compression ratio 7:1.
Head - Gas-flowed, ported and polished Mk 2 with Kent springs, bronze valve guides, Rimflo valves, lightened 1.5:1 high lift rocker arms.
G/box - Standard MkII Cooper S, standard clutch plate with heavy duty diaphragm, 3.05:1 diff ratio.
Fuelling - Hi volume solid state electric fuel pump, single 1.75 inch SU carby with water cooled Garret T2 turbo charger running 9psi boost, home-made inlet manifold.
Exhaust - Home-made exhaust manifold and 2.5 inch system with single silencer and centre tailpipe exit.
Ignition - Lumenition electronic ignition, Bosch GT40 coil, 8mm silicon leads, NGK plugs.
Cooling - Hi-volume water pump, 4 core radiator, 13 row oil cooler.
Brakes - Cooper S discs at front with semi-competition pads, Super MiniFin drums at rear with semi competition shoes, booster servo.
Suspension - Standard hydrolastic with competition bump stops, adjustable lower arms at front, rear anti-roll bar and adjustable rear camber.
Interior - Original Cooper S seats, black carpet, Smiths instruments, Mountney wood steering wheel.
Exterior - MkII shell painted in acrylic white with burgandy roof.
Wheels & tyres - 6 x 10 Mambas fitted with Falken tyres.




My husband built this himself so if you'd like any further details I'll forward questions on to him.
At the moment the engine is out of the car as the S will be soon going through a few mods (motor & exterior).
The car is nice and quiet and an absolute blast to drive.
Cheers

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Julie.............

That looks great, i take it its not running an intercooler?

Can all SU carbs handle boost without mods? Im not too read up on them. I know you have to modify a holley for it to hold boost.

I was thinking about running a spare injector in the intake pipe before the carb that switches on when the turbo boosts using a hobbs switch. Its crude but will be a cheap alternative until I can get my hands on a bigger SU. A mate is running this setup on his twin turbo falcon and it never runs lean.

Is this a terrible idea?

No sure if that idea will work...youll have to ask someone more qualified.

As to your second question, no not any SU can handle boost. Only the metro turbo carb, which is a special HIF44(13/4) SU is designed to do this.....reason for this is from memory, that once boost comes on, the normal carbs will effectively lean out...

If your building a manifold from scratch etc, perhaps you could find a Dellorto, similar as to what was used on the Lotus Esprit(?) i think...Could of been an alfa.

Janspeed used this exact carb on there turbo set-up.

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

they were taken at work
i know them cranes ****** late nights there
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

eh?


I know the current SU may be a bit small but an inector turning on at WOT should fix this problem. I need to know if the turbo will stay together with boost thrown through it. For example if you dont have nitrophyll floats in a holley carb under boost they will collapse when set in a blow through config.

I want to use what I have so a dellorto or similar is not an option yet.