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 Post subject: Re: eureka..i think
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:12 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:10 pm
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Location: Feilding, New Zealand
Sir Yun wrote:
I think I found the problem (I have been at it for about a month now, it was about time I made some progress).

The modified needle was such that it needed the jet to be fully down to give anywhere near a decent mix. This pretty much puts the jet orifice about 15-18 mm down in the bridge and i think this plays havoc with the signal/atomisation/fuel delivery (choke is seperate and is not affected thus explaining the large and positive effect )

I will be having a chat with the dyno guy about that :evil:

Swapped a standard MG metro spec bell housing and needle and damper assembly. Thus basicly returning it to standard

now the jet was pretty much in the starting position as it should be (only slighly below the bridge).

the engine is now pretty happy at higher rev as well, pull smoothly ,idles reasonably and i am confident that the further fueling should prove fixable on a dyno.

I now think that all needle swaps and modification should be first made without altering the basic jet position at all.


it has a BDL now .. i think it need to be a bit richer all the way up top but i want to change back to the smaller manifold without changing anything else. The transient response could be better tough i feels a tad sluggish..and likes to launched into the rev band. I hope that a further tweaking of ignition map ( geting the unit this week) and fueling will sort this out.

it will now go into low warp mode after 4K and pull harder after 5K (
due to the high ratio rockers i reckon).. but not as hard as it did when the old needle and full choke where in it.. but it only work when you did a full bull start keeping the revs high from standstill and through the gears..


The BDL is the standard econo needle that came out on 1275 metros from factory they can be used as a nail to join bits of wood together :lol: . If car is running good but you think it may be a little lean try a BAP needle this will give a bit more fuel right though rev range or go little richer and try a BBW :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:48 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:57 am
Posts: 50
the needle that was in there was a BEJ :? with a very pointy tip.

i think i will order a few needles from burlen as i can get 4 for the price of two

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:55 am 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:10 pm
Posts: 325
Location: Feilding, New Zealand
Sir Yun wrote:
the needle that was in there was a BEJ :? with a very pointy tip.

i think i will order a few needles from burlen as i can get 4 for the price of two


BEJ Theres your problem that would leanout on a standard 1275. That needle is good for feeding fuel to a 1000cc its got half the flow rate of a standard eco BDL. Plus its been modified i would throw it in a rubbish bin. Did you say this vehicle has been dynoed? it would have been running way too lean i cant belive the dyno shop would let it go. Go for a BAP needle or BBW this should make things safe and tunable for you to drive the car :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:59 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:57 am
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spend a day fitting an electrical fuel pump, flushing the cooling system ( is was quite dirty), changing the oil.



Picked up a BBW and a BDR needle at my local friendly MG/Brit car place (I am even allowed to try them out.. how is that for service !).

put in the BDR..not quite shure.
will try the BBW as well.
Initially thought i put in the BBW. drove it a bit and took it for a run on the autobahn.(im on the german border) cruised a bit a 85 MHP

killed it while still on an offramp of a parking spot and coasted to a halt..for plug reading purposes

pulled the plugs.heat range a tad too warm.swapped them for one up the heat range BP6 ES to BP7 ES

timing on the plugs seems okayisch..of course the proper timing has to be tested on the dyno.

just recieved the MegaJolt LITE jr.controller box. it is a lot smaller than i thought..

when time allows i will position the modules and build the loom.

a crank trigger will be supplied by Specialist Components.

i'm quite excited as i have a feeling it will make quite a difference. at least in my case (with a fixed advance dizzy) tiny adjustment make large differences. and even just adjusting and resetting to the exact physical position makes a difference.

switching to a crank trigger system should do some good.

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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/


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 Post subject: aaaargh..
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:55 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:57 am
Posts: 50
It is a BL a series engine 1310cc ( midget/sprite/mini)
head is just a rather normal 35/29 ported .
RC40 exhaust, maniflow freeflow/cooper header
cam is a 276 *0.290 lift symmetrical profile

Checking height: 0.016" @ lobe

Timing: (Intake): 34.5/61.5 (Exhaust): 63.5/32.5

Nominal lobe lift: (Intake): 0.290" (Exhaust): 0.290"

Duration (Intake): 276 (Exhaust): 276

Lobe centre angle (Intake): 103.5 (Exhaust): 105.5

Lobe separation angle: 104.5

Lift on overlap: 0.085"



carb is an SU HIF44 (constant vacuum)




the combination of parts is nothing special but it just does not want to play ball.

on the first chassis dyno session it was uncontrolably rich down low and uncontrolably lean up top.

Suspecting only fuel delivery problems I spend ages fiddling and fitted pump/reg and such and had it running decently for just driving around.

However , on return to the rollers it turns out the problem is still there and still huge.



AFR goes to beyond 7 down low to the point it bogs down and leans out up top.

nothing will cure this as it is impossible to get a needle to do this

after taking the air filter of it showed a large amount of standoff/spitback

removing the bellmouth (exponential one) it went from bad to horrific with clouds of fuel drfiting from under the bonnet. (blair was right about the exponential bellmouth). the huge fuel saturated cloud suspended in fron of the carb mounth causes it to go wildly rich...i can get that but how can it affect top end fueling?

i know what i am seeing.
I sort of know what is going on
I have no clue what can cause it
i have even less of a clue on what to do about it.


how far would the cam timing have to be out to cause this much grief ?

induction noise is very LOUD ( as in not legal for track use .. let alone road) and as i suspected there lot of energy there messing up the fueling.

i had a manifold fitted with larger and slightly longer ports and that seems to work a bit better but stupid me replaced it with the one we used before.

the exhaust is not ideal for this cam but could it be such a major factor?

any thoughts very very appreciate.


did anyone have spitback problemns with this cam on ..well ever.. :cry:

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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/


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