in terms of is it worth finding a Mini K box for remote change.

_________________

look at that, he finishes my sentences and we're not even married

Hmm... rod change vs. remote, the big question.
I would go drive a Mini-K or Cooper S, and see if you like it better.

I have driven good and bad examples of each, but found most rod changes sloppy.

Both shifts get sloppy when parts wear, but IMO the remote is more precise than the rod change when new, although it's a stiffer shift.

The rod change is pretty agricultural the way they built it, mechanism is more exposed to grit and road grime and when the shifter box wears it's pretty much chuck away.

Of course, the big benefit of a remote box is its much better engine location- it has that mount in the tunnel to resist torque. No more broken exhaust mounts etc.
And you don't need all those `steady bars' to stop it trying to climb out of the car..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Having owned both I'd have a remote any day and twice on Sunday.

Rod shift feel sucks and then there is the constant battle to stop the selector seal drip!

I duuno whether you could make a remote fit a rod change clubby - different tunnel would require some custom brackets.

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Tunnel is not that much different where the bracket goes. The crossmember is in the same place, just drill the 3 holes for the remote bracket to go in there. Pack under it if needed.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have had both the rod and remote boxes and I would prefer the Remote to the rod that I have now.

My Local Mini Place talked me into getting the rod change one as he reconds it is better But I like the remote one better.

Motor did not move as Much in the engine bay with the remote one as it does Now.

_________________
I've Got One
You've Got One
We've All Got One
What Is It



A Bloody Mini

1970 Mini K, 1380cc, 1.75 HIF SU, 30 70 Cam, 2" Zorts
1969 Mini K, Stock Standard and Orginal. (Slow as Hell)

I'm soooo impressed with my recent move to a remote change box from a rod change.

Admittedly the old box was in pretty poor shape and the new box has just been recon'd. If I could drive a newly reconditioned rod-change right now I'd have a better chance to compare the two on their merits.

But in any case, I've found the shift on the remote to be much more precise. Initially I found it to be quite stiff in comparision but I'm used to it now. I've found the distance that you need to move the top of the stick to shift between gears is a lot closer together as well.

If the car is just for putting around town and doing the shopping then a rod-change in reasonable condition is going to be fine. If you've got the extra cash and want a more precise shift then go remote.

dewey

_________________
dwightgunning.com

i've got a remote in my car at the moment, should i recon that box and use it with the metro engine?

it's just i dont think the metro rod change box will be worn very much, where as my remote box with the 1100 is pretty worn..

Depends... how much $$$ you wanna blow. Easy to spend $700 on parts alone, doing up a remote (or rod change) box properly.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.