whats the balance tube for Brake booster

Sorry for late replies, busy weekend with kids birthday parties. The engine is a 1275 Cooper S bored to 1310. I am told it has a Wade cam but this is unconfirmed as I have no paperwork on it from the previous owner and he didn't know what sort of wade cam it was anyway. I like the sound of the RE13's from GR but it will be some time before I do a rebuild (I hope...$$$!) I will check the nut off the throttle spindle, hadn't noticed it myself. The vacuum hose for the brake booster has been taken from the middle as there was two outlets on the manifold and it was thought that instead of blanking one, might as well take it from both to balance the flow. Just a theory and probably not necessary I guess, I don't know enough of the mechanics myself. I have attached a pic of another 45 Weber to show where the ID plate is which on mine says 45DCOE13 **** (a serial number, which I don't have without going to look) The linkage kit is the redline one which fills all the holes on the redline manifold and seems to respond well although I know many argue the whells work better. Personal choice I guess. I asume I will get a printout from the dyno check and will post if I do. This is no race engine so I don't imagine it will be spectacular and I won't have any reading from before the conversion to compare anyway.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

On my roady 1360 with a 45 Dellorto I put a similar balance tube on, I mounted the Smiths PCV valve to it. This gets rid of the engine smells you get in the car when running open or filtered breathers.
It doesn't affect idle or power, I still got 86.6HP ATW at MRC dyno day last year.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Dr Mini. Also, I forget to mention in the specs, I used your stub stacks. They went on well and easily. the mechanic was a bit concerned about a nut coming off and into the intake because of the raised surface but I used some loctite so it shouldn't be an issue.

I have to move/re-align the brake vacuum hose because it is causing the bonnet strut/rod thingy to unclip every time you close the bonet. It sticks up right where the bonnet rod runs. I don't know if a 90 degree angle can be used on a vacuum line just after the manifold to get it lower down? or do I shorten it a bit to pull it down without kinking it?

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Looking good Jim

That's one sexy S

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Very nice Jim , well worth the wait .... The manifold and extractors look brilliant with the coating , how hot does the manifold get with the ceramic coating inside and out ?

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