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PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:06 pm 
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998cc
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Looking at the Hewland box - wouldn't it be possible to "just" move the input gear to the other side (resp. towards the front of the 'box) and get rid of the extra gear?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:24 am 
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Asphalt wrote:
Looking at the Hewland box - wouldn't it be possible to "just" move the input gear to the other side (resp. towards the front of the 'box) and get rid of the extra gear?


It's all to do with rotation direction. Looking directly towards the gear set from the clutch end.
1 the crank rotates anti-clockwise
2 the idler gear is clockwise
3 the outer gear[original input gear] is anti clockwise. The mini main shaft is two piece so 1st to 3rd drives thru lay shaft via the 4th gear, then this reverses direction and then back again from 1st to 3rd , and in 4th it is a straight drive.
4 the inner gear on the hewland is fixed to the shaft and the shaft is two piece like mini so that gear is like the 4th gear in a mini and the input shaft[like lay shaft in mini] is giving the opposite rotation

The set-up in the hewland the inner gear and the gear it drives can be changed to give different ratio from crank to gear box input drive.
The bike shafts are complete shaft with out a seperate section ,so the whole shaft rotation has to be reversed.

I did look at that system that hewland use, but with a complete shaft the drop gears need to give the different rotation. For the test set up I am just modifying the std drop gears and if it all works then I will set up my gear cutting attatchment and make a complete set of drop gears including a new crank gear. I am going to take it one step further and make the gear a double helical[herringbone type] so they are two opposite helical gears as one. They will take a lot of power but there is no side thrust like a single helical gear. The crank gear will run on needle roller bearings instead of bronze bushes.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:17 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
I did look at that system that hewland use, but with a complete shaft the drop gears need to give the different rotation. For the test set up I am just modifying the std drop gears and if it all works then I will set up my gear cutting attatchment and make a complete set of drop gears including a new crank gear. I am going to take it one step further and make the gear a double helical[herringbone type] so they are two opposite helical gears as one. They will take a lot of power but there is no side thrust like a single helical gear. The crank gear will run on needle roller bearings instead of bronze bushes.


That is exactly what I was thinking.

So is there enough room at the bottom of the drop gear casing around the input gear to fit a large enough gear, or do you have to modify it for the space?

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:47 pm 
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mickmini wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
I did look at that system that hewland use, but with a complete shaft the drop gears need to give the different rotation. For the test set up I am just modifying the std drop gears and if it all works then I will set up my gear cutting attatchment and make a complete set of drop gears including a new crank gear. I am going to take it one step further and make the gear a double helical[herringbone type] so they are two opposite helical gears as one. They will take a lot of power but there is no side thrust like a single helical gear. The crank gear will run on needle roller bearings instead of bronze bushes.


That is exactly what I was thinking.

So is there enough room at the bottom of the drop gear casing around the input gear to fit a large enough gear, or do you have to modify it for the space?

cheers
michael


Mick, The input gear diameter overlaps the web at the bottom of the case just above the sump plug. the star wheel for the selector drum is just above it, so I am welding a new rib onto the case above the sump plug and this runs verttical to about 3" and then back to the original web.
The outer case has a bit welded to it to suit and some new holes drilled and tapped to mount to the extension.
The selector drum runs across the box just below where the bracket is to hold the oil pick up pipe.
The other mod. is the oil pick up pipe as the original won't fit. The new pipe is mounted to the hole at the back of the box ,but runs down against the rear case in the middle of the shaft[gears are smaller dia., 5th&6th] and then into the bottom of the box. The strainer is basically in the center of the box and I am fitting a cover so that as the oil is aerated by the gears the pick up is in a weir arrangement so that it does not pick up aerated oil and not subjected to oil surge.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 7:11 am 
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david rosenthal wrote:
mickmini wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
I did look at that system that hewland use, but with a complete shaft the drop gears need to give the different rotation. For the test set up I am just modifying the std drop gears and if it all works then I will set up my gear cutting attatchment and make a complete set of drop gears including a new crank gear. I am going to take it one step further and make the gear a double helical[herringbone type] so they are two opposite helical gears as one. They will take a lot of power but there is no side thrust like a single helical gear. The crank gear will run on needle roller bearings instead of bronze bushes.


That is exactly what I was thinking.

So is there enough room at the bottom of the drop gear casing around the input gear to fit a large enough gear, or do you have to modify it for the space?

cheers
michael


Mick, The input gear diameter overlaps the web at the bottom of the case just above the sump plug. the star wheel for the selector drum is just above it, so I am welding a new rib onto the case above the sump plug and this runs verttical to about 3" and then back to the original web.
The outer case has a bit welded to it to suit and some new holes drilled and tapped to mount to the extension.
The selector drum runs across the box just below where the bracket is to hold the oil pick up pipe.
The other mod. is the oil pick up pipe as the original won't fit. The new pipe is mounted to the hole at the back of the box ,but runs down against the rear case in the middle of the shaft[gears are smaller dia., 5th&6th] and then into the bottom of the box. The strainer is basically in the center of the box and I am fitting a cover so that as the oil is aerated by the gears the pick up is in a weir arrangement so that it does not pick up aerated oil and not subjected to oil surge.


brilliant as usual :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:52 pm 
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Asphalt wrote:
Sorry for that pointless post

:P :lol: :lol: :lol:
I don't think any post of this sort is ever pointless, and the conversation that followed... Priceless. 8)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 3:36 am 
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998cc
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david rosenthal wrote:
The bike shafts are complete shaft with out a seperate section ,so the whole shaft rotation has to be reversed.

I did look at that system that hewland use, but with a complete shaft the drop gears need to give the different rotation.


Oh, yes. I see! Damn directions... :D

Unless... Different rotation could be given at the other end, diff end, of the gearbox! Like; adding a idler gear between crown & pinion. This in turn makes it possible to swap places of main & laygear and drive it as was on the primary gear side. Or drive the diff via a chain, why not? Or am I overseeing something again? :lol:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 8:34 pm 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
David, can't you just cut some new cams then change the A series rotation direction?
eg a Fiat 600 and a Fiat 850 sport are damn near the same block dimensions, but the 850 sport motor runs anticlockwise. As a mate found out when he bolted it to the 600's gearbox and went to drive away.... :lol:
Fix? he just used the 600's cam and dizzy. :wink:


Mmmmh - shouldn't it be possible to reverse the A-Serie's running direction with a K head? Symetrical cams and all that (which makes it possible to use it on a A-sereis in the first place!)...

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 9:57 pm 
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could you just get a box made bigger to fit gears? there is still a bit of room under the mini?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 11:57 pm 
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I could reverse the direction with a honda head but I want to design it so that it can be bolt to a std mini engine.

I looked at hi-velocity chain drives BUT not too sure about them.
With the gear set up I am designing it so the 2nd idler can be repositioned and then the ratio from the crank to the input drive can be changed.

The honda cbr 1000, 900,600 and vfr 750,800, all have the same shafts and the gears are interchangable. With the std bike gears and the many different ratios available you can just build a box with the gear ratios and input drive ratios you want.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:09 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:

I looked at hi-velocity chain drives BUT not too sure about them.



Ask Warwick Agustin about his chain drive on his 4AGE sports sedan. I runs from the primary gear to the input gear, so is always running at engine revs. His has been running for close to 20 years now, so any problems and he will know about them.

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:37 pm 
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Austin 1800 automatics had a Hi-Vo chain drive to the BW auto. They made heaps but I'm not sure if they gave problems.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 8:09 am 
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Hi just interested to know why the remote change box in the pic has a spring on the knuckle joint?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 10:28 pm 
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gr4h4m wrote:
Hi just interested to know why the remote change box in the pic has a spring on the knuckle joint?


they probably had to machine away the spot where the normal reverse spring lives


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:30 pm 
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Has anything eventuated in regards to this thread in the past 4 months? I like where it was going...5spd overdrive mini compatible gear sets - welcome to the 21st century...

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