If it's like the RE13/RE13T difference, the lobe lift profiles are exactly the same, but the LCA (angle between inlet and exhaust lobe) is increased. This reduces the inlet charge loss down the exhaust port during the valve overlap period.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Maybe some one from Sydney may have the opportunity to ask GR the difference when they see him???

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I was wondering as I've just put a 13T in mine while I'm rebuilding it,

I had heard mention of testing being done on another cam thats wilder then the 13T, and wondered if it was this one, Looks like thats not the case though, I had a search on hear and it appears the re83 is a more docile cam than the re13.

I've had a 13 and an 83, both great, but different. They are both road cams and I found them very happy pottering around in traffic. The 13 makes its power at high RPM, whereas the 83 is all about low down torque. The kind of driving I do (motorkhanas) I have a lot more fun with the 83. Seems to suit the blower really well too

I discussed it all with GR

I'm running an RE83 in an 1100+0.060". It's a ripper!
I had a mild cam tech cam with +0.020" and a 12G295 head.

I'm running the +0.060" set up with a standard 12G202 and it is torquey as all get out! Can't wait to rebuild the 295 and get that on!

I too talked to GR about it and he suggested the 83 over the 13 as the 1100 is not know for its rpm capability.

what does GR charge for a cam? I have a 731 in the 1150 hillclimber and will see how it goes with the new head (max effort 12g202), but have been told the new cams poop on things like the ST cams from a great height. The re83 sounds good, wont be revving past 7000 so low down grunt is king.

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1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer

I think about $140 for a regrind including postage

It would be interesting to get your new head and run round on that, and then change the cam from the 731 to the RE83, keeping everything else standard.

For an independant evaluation

Brenton

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That's about right I think, if you send him a stock cam to regrind.
If you want it ground onto a new steel billet he can do that too, ring him and ask the $$$ because I'm not sure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah thats what i'll do, be interesting to see how far cams have come in 30+ years. PS is there any benefit with using a fresh cam blank over regrinding a stocky? $140 sounds very reasonable.

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1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer

Only real benefit of a new billet is on race cams as the material is harder and they have more meat to grind adventurous profiles onto.
For the road I find regrinds work fine. Particularly GR's ones- they all have a nice big radius on the peak of the lobe, unlike some others that I could mention, but won't here...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.