Ok I get it now might get my mate to weld a small pipe in my Rocket cover and run it to a oil catch can.
do I need to have a PCV in the middle of it?

The correct answer is to hook the clutch case breather to the inlet manifold with a PCV or hook it to the port on the carby without the PCV. It is as simple as that. No cutting or welding just change the position of the hose.

A catch can is a complete waste of time on a road car. It will make your car stink of oil.
It is fitted to race cars to stop the oil from blown up motors from getting onto the track. (it is a CAMS rule)
If you fit a catch tank it will still leak from the oil cap. If you hook the breather up the way I said it will not leak.

Micool, you can absolutely hook up a catch can. Absolutely. But if you hook it up, the hose goes from the clutch cover breather into one side, and the other side goes to the inlet manifold through a pcv. Just as Morris 1100's said. It doesn't go to a charcoal canister or anywhere else, it goes to through a PCV to the manifold. A catch can might be useful for you - some (I believe Dr Mini included - though I have no experience in this matter) have found oil can spray up that hose (I believe those occasions may well have involved Wakefield Park). A catch can would stop that happening. But, for 95% of people, running off there, it's unnecessary. Money you don't need to spend right now.

What you really need is for the fumes from the crankcase to be sucked out of the engine and dumped somewhere that you won't smell them. You want the crankcase to run at a slight vacuum. That will mean that there won't be any pressure pushing oil out of your rocker cap. So, with that hose from the breather on the clutch cover, you want its final destination to be a source of vacuum. There's a few of them. The bottom of the front of the windscreen can be an area of lower pressure. The back of the car can be, too. But the best spot - the absolute best spot - is down the inlet manifold. SO, hook it up to the inlet manifold, through a PCV. You'll be amazed at how much less the car smells, and it'll solve your oil leak.

Pictures say a 1000 words they say, do you have a pic of that setup?

Here's mine- 1 breather, straight from the rocker cover into the manifold via a Toyota style PCV valve.
It works the same with the flywheel housing breather, but as said I found it chucked oil up there when accelerating on long LH bends.. Wakefield Pk fish hook, but also long LH bend motorway entries.

IMGP2647 by k_green1310, on Flickr

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So am I the only one who is a little confused? Does it matter which side clutch cover or rocker cover we connect to the manifold to get the best result or should we aim for both?

Maybe I haven't followed the conversation close enough cause I think there is a couple of different threads in here with solutions for different problems?

Clutch housing one works fine for most people, except for conditions I noted above.
If anybody needs one I have 1 or 2 here.

1275LS and 1275 Rover Minis had a breather can on the A+ type timing cover as well, but not earlier motors.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just went into super crap and asked if they stocked any pcv valves..... should have seen the confused look on the poor kids face..

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The best part of fixing your mini is the test drive

Minis..

1976 van daily drive
1975 van
1968 deluxe in the shed
1967 deluxe high strung 1310
1959 austin healey sprite

I ordered mine from Repco but they are cheaper on ebay.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Anyone have pics with there set ups yet.
I havnt started on mine yer.

Fresh air needs to go in the engine from....
- Rocker cover Oil cap (unfiltered air)
--Rocker Cover pipe via inside the air filter" (between the carb and filter), or an "oil breather filter"
-- Flame Catcher pipe via "inside the air filter" or an "oil breather filter"

Fumes inside the engine need to be sucked out from...
- Rocker Cover pipe you will suck a lot of oil from here!
-- the "flame catcher" atop the clutch housing
--- "cam lifter inspection plate" (below the carby & exhaust, on the right closer to the radiator end)
if you have both of the "flame catchers' use one to draw fumes out then either block one up or use both to suck fresh air in

now from the place you chose to draw the fumes out with, run a hose to a "PCV" then...
- the brass pipe on your carby this runs to, behind the venturi so fuel should in theory wash away any oil
--- the intake manifold same thing again fuel should wash away any oil
---- between the air filter and carb this is where most cars ive worked on run the PCV hose to but it can oil up everything inside, clogging the carby turning it black and gunky.
----- the bottom part of the carbon canister assuming there is a fuel tank hose and a hose running to a vacuum source connected
------ an "oil catch can" then "PCV" then to one of the above

now many people do these combinations differently
on my car i dont have a flame catcher on my clutch housing, (just sat it there for demonstration) so

fresh air goes through my oil cap down the block to the "cam inspection plate" up large hose to the bottom point of the catch can "any oil separates from the air" and the air then travels to the side of my carby, and into the cylinders to be burnt, i would prefer to run a hose from my rocker cover to the air filter but as you can see i use a trumpet/velocity stack, with a slip over foam filter so no place to run a hose to.

carbon canisters allow fuel vapors from the tank to get trapped in the carbon inside the canister and not to the atmosphere, so you need to run a hose from this to the tank, and one to a vacuum source

if you have a brake booster then it requires a vacuum hose from the manifold
but you dont have one anyway.

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1969 Blue Mini K, 1330cc, Weber 45, polished aluminum roll cage, Race seats, 4 point harness, full rewire incorporating 8 fuses, 6 relays and new headlights just needs tyres front shocks and a windscreen til re-register

Thanks for the Pic and detailed information.
Only Problem I can see is that my vacume on the carby has been soilded up not sure why have read that it is for performance.
Ryan said that he will give me a hand see if we can work it out other wise I might take it down to Ian Faheys and see what he thinks.

Some later minis came with a 43D distributor - essentially a 45D without the vac advance. If the car was previously running with one of these, or just had the vac advance removed, the port on the carby will need to be blocked off.

The vac advance is a fuel economy device - I doubt removing it would result in any noticeable (or just any) performance benefits. It's not necessary, but if it's there, why not use it?

Found a old pic of my motor after GR built the motor.
What is the hose from the Dizzy to carby and what is it used for?
Should I put it back on ?

Vacuum advance. It alters the timing automatically as the vacuum in the manifold changes.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.