Michaelb I put a new facet race fuel pump on mine today and it got rid of all the hesitation. Still need a tune of the carb as it leans out over 120. Put some oil in my carby helped too!

Only the slightest bit of condensation right at the bottom of the inlet pipe, maybe 3 drops thats all. Hope that helps.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

I purchased a kit from Tech Edge for Lambda sensor so I can measure the Air Fuel Ratio AFR and get this Supercharged engine running a bit better.
Looks like it is running too rich @ 12:1 when idling, should be 16:1.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Had the car on the chassis dyno today
1st issue , the body kit is in the way and can't tie the car down so off with the front bumper, luckily it's not bonded
Much pinging, so reduced the ignition advance which is easy with the megajolt
Now not enough fuel, so checked the fuel regulator, it was set at 2 lbs, now adjusted to 3.5lbs
Another run and fuel is better and pinging is reduced, but still going lean under power
End result is good, but now looks like the carby is the limitation as the AFR is very lean, even though the needle is very thin
End result is a compromise between power and drive ability
Remembering I fitted a 3:1 diff ratio, the engine will pull from1500 rpm in 4th and accelerate with no hesitation, the torque is great

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Engine is running well, although occasionally for as yet an unknown reason it still pings when accelerating
Also having an issue selecting reverse when the engine heats up and I suspect I do not have enough clearance on the primary gear and it is binding as the metal expands, so I guess it's either an engine out or at th least a clutch/ flywheel removal
Also difficult to change down gears when hot so I think it all points to the primary gear or idler gear?
On the positive it doesn't overheat in traffic, runs really well on the motorways and I worked out its getting about 35mpg.
Not 100% sorted but without going to fuel injection I think it's probably the best I can get

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

As the gearbox heats up & expands, the clearance at the clutch stop screw increases. So you get less clutch travel.
You can either reduce the arm gap a bit (try .010") or do what I did- bin the return spring AND screw the stop screw in a few turns, you then have automatic clutch adjustment (like a Rover) and this problem goes away.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So I checked the clutch arm stop and discovered I had about 35 thou gap
Adjusted to about 18 thou and all fixed, gear change is so nice and smooth now and I can even select reverse without crunching very happy
Car drives really well just need to be careful no one runs into the back of me when it does a big hesitation after taking off from the lights
Still working on the technique for smooth take off's, but a few revs when the lights are about to change seems to gulp the buildup fuel but you then sound like a boy racer
Only answer is to not stop in the first place

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

My latest modification to try and overcome the flooding while at idle.





It appears to have improved the stop start issue but it affected the power when trying to accelerate while driving back down the F3 when on the long hills it would seriously ping at any thing over 4000 rpm. I thought about it later and should have turned the heater off while on the freeway. Looks like another drive on the weekend to try out the theory.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

just pull a bit of advance out of it

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

ha!

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Zulu...

1967 mini Cooper S

Hi Simon, already running about 15 deg of advance when under full power. I think the charge is now getting too hot due to the heater wrapped around he inlet and the fix is to reduce the heat, reduce the compression o reduce the advance.
My first plan is to reduce the heat and then reduce the spark advance if that doesnt help.
I am also tempted to try a thin decompression plate to see what difference that makes

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

Have you tried increasing the octane? Should reduce detonation nicely...

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

How do I increase the octane above BP 98. ?
Not sure if Nulon octane boost works?
Could try Avgas but I believe it's $3 per litre

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I'd never normally suggest it, but for the purposes of experimentation you can get an ethanol blend at 100 octane at least... In Victoria at least

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Try turning the heat off and see if that makes a difference. You will need to do a few runs to make doubly sure.
I would also try it without heat and blank off the grille in front of the carby.

Michael,
Octane boost didn't work for me (1310S, 10.8:1 C/R) when I tried it at a track day once. It ran better on the way home when I diluted it with more BP98...

You could try 2x BK450 gaskets, I ran like that for years. But safer with a thin plate in between as you suggest.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.