My clubbie passed a roadworth with 5mm spacers. In queensland that is, don't know what it's like elsewhere.

_________________
72 Clubbie - Current project - Vauxhall C20XE 2000cc 16v 150hp.
78 Clubbie - Future project.

yeah but i can get a 8.4" turbo metro setup

reco calipers
new discs
new ball joints
new cvs
reco swivel hubs

for $1100 from the local mini shop

all and all with
machining spacers (i dont care if the're illegal.. i can always keep me drums to whack on for the pits)
fabricated back plates
and machining of drum hub and discs

whats this coversion really cost?? i dont have alot of experience with bringing stuff to machine shops (other than standard engine stuff)

id hack out the back plates with and angy grinder but the center hole is my concern

also to get the hubs to fit inside the disc... it would need more precision than an angle grinder.. and i dont know anyone with a lathe.. so machine shop would be my best bet...

anyone know what i should expect to get slogged for that?

and to boot.. there are a fair few different versions of discs people have asked about.. now i get the 4 pot late 80's civic , but is there a conversion for vented discs, i plan on short tracking this car and motakanas and i will need vented if i'm gunna have any chance on taking out my mates s15

i have 12x5 's' offset rims (the ones from tempe, which look sweet by the way)

The first set of backplates I did, I cut them out of plate with an angle grinder.
Cut 'em square last time, not round, it's easier!
The big 3" hole in the centre I marked out, drilled around with a 1/4" drill and filed to size. Didn't take too long. But a lathe is faster...

Re the spacers- I've been told that if they are properly bolted to the disc/hub or the wheel, they are not considered `spacers' as such, in NSW anyhow.
On our Clubbie I used the long `Mini S' brake drum screws to hold the 25mm spacers & discs onto the hub.

Not quite back on the road yet so dunno how I'll go, but others in Tas & Qld have had no probs getting Honda brakes passed.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Metro fron swivel hubs have a different geometry to Mini ones. They will bolt on with the right ball joints, but the camber and castor angles will be out. You will need negative camber bottom arms and different castor rods as well. These will add a fair bit to the cost of a Metro conversion. Also your wheels will stick out around 1/2" further than with Mini 8.4" disks or spacer drums. So it's not all as easy as you think.

The Honda units will cost you less than $500 including machining.

_________________
Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Something worth mentioning again is just how much of a toss our road rules are with regards to legality, for example i could fit a mad 1460 motor hitting something in the region of 130-150 hp and i could legally register it with a pisspoor set of 7 inch cooper discs.... silly huh? also worth mentioning is technically i believe the vented metro turbo brakes would also require an engineers certificate, so would wheels over 4 1/2 inches wide for older mini's and over 5 1/2 inches wide for clubmans, so would a set of seats that arent original. Also exhausts arent allowed to utilise jiffy clamps to hold them on, this makes many standard çooper S's illegal, suspension components arent allowed to be welded and kev informs me this makes many standard fiats illegal.... Get my drift? the rules are a crock of crap......

I believe kev is right RE spacers... again another stupid contradiction as the locatin screws to hold a disc or drum on really do bugger all, the wheelnuts/studs do the work

G

_________________
--Insert legal disclaimer here--

oh, i agree totally.. i dont care if its not technically legal,
i'm more concerned about cost and how i go about getting these things machined

why do 12" rims only require 19mm spacers and 10" require 25.. i understand why 10s need the extra space for clearance, but what size will make the offset the same as my cooper s stepped rear drums?

if i make a back plate out of 8mm sheet, will i require any spacers behind the disc

and do the honda accord discs that animal have fit under 12" rims? i see he has them under 13s(i really really want vented)

25mm spacers will give you the same offset as your stepped drums would (or S brakes for that matter).
I used 19mm ones on my 10x5 Speedy Hotwires as they are deeper dish- ie. are wider track than Contessas.

12x5 Performance Superlight? wheels will fit without a spacer, as the wheel rim clears the caliper by 2 or 3mm. On 10x5" wheels it doesn't, so the wheel has to be moved out further.
Also with 12s or 13s you don't have to turn the discs down to 7.9"- they can stay at ~9".
I reckon Animal's brakes would fit under 12s, would probably need a spacer though- disc & caliper is a little wider.
PM him...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm running the stepped drums front & rear at the moment with 10" wheels and no flares... the wheels are outside the arches fraction (looking down from the top) and haven't had any road worthy issues.

Would 10" superlights be at the same offset with the Honda discs & a 25mm spacer? If thats the case, then I reckon I'll get away with it

dewey

_________________
dwightgunning.com

Find a `Mini offset' Contessa 10x5 and try that on yours now. But I reckon they will be illegal with the 25mm spacers, without flares.
Wheel mount face of spacer will be exactly the same as it is now with your spacered drums.

12x5 Superlights without a spacer would be OK without flares, as they are 25mm further in- I tried them on a Clubbie already.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ahhh I see.

Well that makes it a bit easier to get an idea of what to do now that I know the offset will be the same.

Cheers,

Dwight.

_________________
dwightgunning.com

ok, well turns out that the $1100 setup from the local mini place is actually for standard single pot 8.4" discs (like the mokes) what a rip.. i can buy two mokes for that. they also rekon the civic setup will root up all of my geometry.. now i havent done geometry and trig since high school, but if i'm using the same drive flanges and end up with the same offset as my spaced drums.. i can not figure out how f'n possible this could even alter my suspension geometry let alone root it

anyway... civic discs seem the only go.. well unless i can get the accord discs under my wheels (12" mini uk line from tempe)

anyone here in perth done a succesful conversion.. woulnt mind seeing it

i picked up some second hand drive flanges today for 20bux(so i dont have to take my car off the road during this process).. can get an 84 accord brakes for 100 bux (animal.. is that the right year? )

my grandfather (used to be a boiler maker) rekons i could just cut the plate with his oxy.. anyone tried this method? scrap 8mm should only cost me 5 bux a side from the local steel shop... looking very good so far

No it can't root up the geometry, the swivel hubs, arms and offset are the same as a stock Clubbie S!!!

What does root up geometry (and nobody talks about it) is fitting UK steering boxes (which are generally MK2 type) in a Mini with Oz (Mk1 type) steering arms...

Yes, somebody in Perth was doing a set of Civics, I emailed him a while back. Dunno if I still have his details though.

I think it would be hard to spend more than $500 doing a Honda Civic conversion.

<edit> YES you can cut the plates with oxy. No problem. Just make sure they are flat afterwards.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just read this thread for the first time today. I have the metro 4 pot job so hadn't considered it necessary to look at other options. One thing that has always annoyed me with my brakes is that the wheels (12*5 performance/superlight) stick out way too far and the suspension geometry is all wrong.

I am currently in the process of acquiring bits to do a motor conversion so am looking for a subframe. I like the idea of the ventilated 9" jobs so will get them off the 84 accord. Backing plate does't really bother me as it will just be another bit that needs to be fabricated. Question - Assuming the subframe I get still has the drum brakes attached to it, what am I looking for (e.g. just drum brakes of any variety??

Oh.. and I went to just one wrecker today 10 mins down the road and there were prolly 50 Hondas that I could have taken brakes off. $77 per car they tell me.

Reckon I can flog my vented jobs for close to $800, correct the suspension geometry, bring the track in to where it should be and maybe even piss off those dog ugly flares. Kicking myself for ignoring this post for the last three months.

Any drum brake swivel hubs and drive flanges will do.
The backplate mount holes in hubs were all the same for 1LS and 2LS brakes.

Just note- the 3 screw holes are not symmetrical- The top hole is not quite on C/L. This is so they couldn't mix the backplates up L/R.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

1LS and 2LS Brakes?

Not quite C/L?

L/R. left and right?