What did the old design look like? And what is the mod?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Never mind what the old designs look like, the point is to make the openning of the pickup as big as possible so that it picks up more oil. This can be done in several ways, easiest of which is to cut the pipe openning at an angle rather than a straight 90 degree cut. The other thing perhaps is not to use such a fine mesh and to use more of it. Very hard to judge what mods you can make with what room you have in there but making something custom and having a bigger mesh area to look something like a stock pickup mesh box 'should' be straight forward...

Next time it's out I will either do that OR go back to the stock one

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

My two cents worth:

It would be interesting to know what is happening in fluid dynamics terms.

I'm thinking that if it is "sucking air" ie creating a whirlpool above the intake then just cutting at an angle may or may not fully solve the problem

(I've played around with swimming pool intakes to stop air sucking)

If the surface of the oil is still close to the suction there will still be a chance to cause the whirlpool effect. That could be stopped by disrupting the path to the surface for want of better words and this could be done by after cutting the angle (and not sharp to the top but about 3/4 way up) and cut at greater than 45* then bend the top (about 1 cm ) down about 45* This will reduce or stop suction from the top of the pipe and cause it to favour the bottom.

Cavet: I'm just summising here and haven't even got into the box that far yet but will be looking at that approach at the weekend when I've pulled it all apart.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I don't think there is much of chance of this happenning if you have a full or overfull sump.

At the end of the day, if you are racing, and taking corners hard enough to move oil to one side of the car, then yes, centre oil pickup mods are worth it for you.

If you have a road car and the only times you will take corners hard enough at high RPM are once a blue moon and you are not constantly doing this (like in a track situation), then why risk it for just those occasions that you "may" be going around a corner too fast...? Just use the stock pickup and spend $100 elsewhere

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I had a stock oil pick up but with yoko A032R tyres in soft compound I would get terrible oil starvation on corners, even with an over-full sump.

It's not a nice feeiling when you zipping up Mt Glorious and you see your oil pressure fall to ZERO while the revs are at 5,000. It doesn't take too may corners to realise that the engine won't last.

I agree the mini spares unit isn't perfect but my car maintains 75 psi at all times with one installed. Just have to be careful about the mesh blocking over time.

Go the modifed central pickup I reckon.

M

hmm interesting is it not only a problem when going around fast left handers as the oil sloshes to the right? (or is that the other way around )??

Well I am stuck with this one for the next 50,000 miles or so at least so I will put that problem on the back burner until then

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I'll be sticking with the central oil pickup I have, no idea if it is a MS one or not, had it a while. I've set the oil pressure to run at 60psi hot at revs, ball bearing and cut the spring to suit. The oil & filter is changed each time, very regularly, so very little chance of gunk clogging up the mesh. I have noticed that when I back off the throttle the oil pressure does rise to about 80psi and then settles back, never been bothered by this however. I'll know for sure if there has been a problem when I pull the crank bearings out this weekend. This engine has done 2 race seasons.

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Steve

Very interesting! please do report back and let us know how they went

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I think it's right hand corners. I used to see zero pressure with my FK07E's (Falkens) all the time but thankfully the crank didn't show any sign of damage. This was with stock pickup.

My current box has a central oil pickup now and I haven't noticed dropping pressure at high rpm, not that I have been looking either.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

See you bright and early tommorow morning Chong. Looking forward to lending a hand. 9am see you there mate have a good night..... can't wait for tommorow.

The current one is horizontal, end cut off square, with a long cone of mesh sticking out.

Previous MSC design has the end open too, but a horizontal cut is made 50mm long, from the open end, 1/3 of the way up the pipe. ie a long slot on the bottom. So there is about 6x the cross sectional area for the oil to get into the pipe.
The mesh is attached to the pipe several inches from the end so it covers the end, & the slot.
Not sure if the old pipe is a bit longer, I don't have a new one here to compare with. If somebody can measure one I'll post the length of this old one.
I'll rip the mesh off it today and post a pic.

I have one of each type, as I said the early ones do get rubbed by the reverse fork on remote boxes.
I have the current design one in my 1360 now, and have had no problems, even at 7500+ rpm. But next time I'll refit the old one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Actual horitontal bit is 2" before the curve starts. usable mesh sticks 1" beyond the end.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Old MSC one is 2-1/2" before start of bend.
The mesh went 1/2" or so beyond the cut, and stuck out the end about 1/2". It was rolled up like a cigarette and had a tiny bit of round mesh put in the rolled mesh at the end, 1/2" away from the pipe end- to seal it.

If modding a new style one, I'd just make the cut 40mm long as pipe is a little shorter.

pics, after I ripped the old mesh off-

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Before the mod


Close up of mesh end


Mesh removed


Mod done


Bit of rust inside Now I just need a bit of courser weave mesh to cover it up

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Not too flash inside eh, for a new pipe...

I use donor steel mesh from a std Mini strainer.
Takes a bit to clean it up. Then I silver solder it on.

Watch it if you are soft soldering- I reckon oil gets too hot for the standard 50/50 stuff.
Cigweld do make a harder one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.