Sorry I'm confusing everyne here - I'm not sure if its a gt40t or gt40r but they are the new epoxy filled types - I'll test them today (as per your advice, thanks kev) and will replce them if they are the 3ohm type (the wrecker said I can replace no probs)

How do we go about checking the Ohm rating of a coil, assuming it isnt printed anywhere on it.....?? Is it as simple as using a mulitimeter across the + and - terminals on the Ohm setting???

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Yes. Just make sure no other wires are connected to coil.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

For those of you out there running a Pulsar D4R83 dizzy, I've found the D4R85 advance curve (12* instead of 16) works a bit better (on 1275 anyway). I've now edited my 1st post to reflect this.

I have now ripped an 83 to bits, when I've finished reducing its max advance I'll post how to do it here...
Thinking, thinking.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Update:
After seeing how the Pulsar dizzy's mech advance works, I won't mess with it. It's got pins on the bobweights running in slots in a hardened plate (part of upper spindle). Nice engineering, but a PITA to modify. So, I won't.
The D4R83 is now running nice in Barney's 1293 anyway.
....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I know I'm resurrecting an ancient thread, but I've just spent the day modifying and installing a D4R83 dizzy ex Pulsar N12 (as per the excellent instructions at the start of this thread) in my basically stock Minor 1000.

It went in beautifully and started literally on the first pull!

Needs the timing tweaked (job for tomorrow) but it's already idling heaps better.

Excellent instructions, excellent mod. Thanks heaps DrMini!

BTW Alljap wreckers at Tingalpa in Brisbane has several DR483's in stock on the shelf! - none still fitted to vehicles.

(EDIT): it's Boss Wrecking at Tingalpa, not Alljap. I always get the names confused!

Hagar - How much you pay at Tingalpa - might have to shoot over and get me one for the mini??
Cheers Gerard

$44.00 this am - fairly reasonable for them - they have been pretty steep on stuff in the past.
BTW - the dizzys are in crates on racks just near the counter. They'll show you where they are, but I left a decent one on the shelf directly below the box of Nissan ones. It would have been my second choice, and they probably won't have noticed it to put it back.

Cool thanks Hagar I will get them to hold that one for me (I wil call them this morning) if you don't mind at all...... Cheers Gerard

Go for it!

Mate Alljap is at underwood and virginia - is there another name 4 it?
Cheers Gerard

All fixed - Boss Wrecking @ Tingalpa (they tried to charge me $49.50 - ONLY TRIED) - They couldn't find the one you put aside but I am heading over there now
Cheers Gerard

Walked in and spoke to another guy and he immediately said $38.50 - then he tried to ask what i had been quoted derrrrrrr $38.50 of course
hehehehe
Cheers Gerard

Done good!

I've just finished a bit of re-arranging (wires, vacum advance etc) and timing on mine.

Runs really well, I've been able to get the idle down to 500rpm (what it should be) and it still runs smoothly.

I think i have a little problem i bought a D4R83 to go into Putt Putt's new motor (stupid me did not read Page 1 of this post) except the new motor is a 1310 with a HIF44 and extractors (I don't think LCB) - I have a couple of options - 1. Take it back and (hopefully) get a D4R85 2. Get the D4R83 going - put it in the 1310 get it running and save it for when i rebuild the 998 3. Put the D4R83 away and go and buy a D4R85 and get it running in the 1310 ..... Please anyone any ideas???

Cheers Gerard