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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:37 pm 
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1098cc
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Typically most springs will have a colour on them indicating their tention, it will have a red, blue, green, yellow etc strip on it. If it has worn off, then there is a method for testing. I don't remember the measurements I'm sorry, but you compress the spring X amount and measure the tention, then reffer to an SU manual and you should be able to look it up in a spring chart.

Working out what spring you need without a dyno.. trail and error. As I said before, if the spring is too weak, the piston will rise too quickly, if it is too strong it won't rise all the way... how do you tell what yours is doing why your driving? Don't know. Someone else here might, if they do hopefully they'll share, cos I'd like to know too.

Someone has a device they put together that measures and records the piston lift,,, its in a thread called something about Computer Tuning SU's... he seemed to be getting pretty good results out of it. But that's the only time I've ever known anyone to find a way of measuring it in flight. TheMiniMan had a special bell with a coloured stick in it that he uses I think.

But yeah. Good luck at the dyno tuners. Be sure to post your results :P


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:40 pm 
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1098cc
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GT mowog wrote:
Phat Kat wrote:

Be carefull with that red neck dyno, can be a bit dangerous if the car should for some unforeseen reason come off the stands... I don't call it red neck for nothing :lol:


take the front wheels OFF, then it'll be less inclined to come off in the first place and do less carnage if it does.

see also http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... ter+tuning


:roll: Now you tell me :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:13 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
lol.. do I realy have to run it for long enough to warrent replacing the brakes afterwards? surely it wouldnt be much more stressful than slowing the car down from 110km/h

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:38 pm 
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phreak97 wrote:
It's a Vane VP-770...........


OK, it's highly likely that the exhaust gas sensor has 'had it' by now (they had a very finite life) and will require replacing. You might be able to get one but might take some hunting around. For the cost and hassle and ultimate limitations of it, there are better options around these days.

Although I'm one for saying 'have a go' this is not the type of 'thing' you can learn to do in a short space of time and without some help to guide you through it, so if you are going to go down this path, don't expect to have any meaningful result in say an afternoon............


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:43 pm 
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848cc
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yeah I reckon I'm back to the Idea of just getting it to a dyno..

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1949 Fiat Topolino
1965 Morris 1100
1966 Mini Van (project)
19?? Morris 1500 (for sale)
1979 Chrysler Regal
1990 FSM Niki


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 11:31 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:32 pm
Posts: 167
mini friendly dyno that has tuned bens kits (and his own racecar) before.
Boostworx 82990621
he has moved to pooraka.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:32 pm 
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848cc
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needle modding thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/inde ... 59683&fr=0

for an o2 kit I try techedge. I think they are made in AUS too

http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm

Ive got a Tech Edge 2J1 WBo2 which runs off of my laptop and I have the bung in the Y on the exhaust manifold. I did make a tail pipe sniffer but these wont measure idle very well.

Dot forget the engine timing too... this needs sorting so you are retarding at boost..

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:33 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:49 pm
Posts: 194
Location: Gawler SA
ive just tried the ghetto dyno and it was interseting to say the least. its a 1160, 731cam mild head, hs4, lcb etc with a AAK and red spring. My only way to measure mixture was a colour tune (i plan to get a innovate wideband) and according to this it was lean at load from 3000 up. when i manually lifted the piston the mixture turned to slightly rich (blue/yellow). So im no thinking softer spring (blue?), or a richer needle at the last 3-4 needle stations (i need one of those profile books).

The initial problem was it falling down in 3rd (full load i assume) but it runs great in 1st and 2nd.

What do you guys think? what the next one up from a AAK?

I realise a dyno is the only way to do it right (im sure as hell aint trying this on my S14a) but its such an excersise to get there and i dont know of any in adelaide that tune SU's.

Cheers,
Jeff

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1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:01 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:32 pm
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Quote:
i dont know of any in adelaide that tune SU's.

look up a couple of posts :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:00 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:49 pm
Posts: 194
Location: Gawler SA
ahhhh, so they have a selection of sprung needles?

_________________
1974 1150cc Leyland Mini S racer,
1975 No motor Leyland Mini "ute"
1991 IPRA Honda Integra (in the build)
1995 Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi

CAMS Scrutineer


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:07 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:32 pm
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you have a PM.


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