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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:01 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 1:19 pm
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Location: Adelaide
Good to see you have it running and are happy :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:57 pm 
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Yay For Hay!
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
sweeeet - top stuff

competition bump stops on the back are an excellent upgrade, I recently put dampers on the front, and haven't noticed a lot of difference, but then I don't have as much grunt as you either ;)

the bump stops are really easy to fit, and doesn't take long - I recommend doing that before you go to the drags :)

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 8:12 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:16 pm
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Location: Melbourne
haha thats awsome chris, good stuff!

make sure you let me know when/if you go to the drags at calder so i can come along 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:54 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:17 pm
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Location: Caroline Springs, VIC
will be installing the bump stops for sure. Although the rocking is funny its not the safest or the best for the tyres. Clubby757 if you still wanted to go for that spin let us know ill come pick you james and his brother up, ill let u know when im going to calder aswell.

Next im getting my speedo recalibrated so i dont lose my license i think its one of the more important tasks.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:18 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:17 pm
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Location: Caroline Springs, VIC
Havent had a chance to install bump stops yet but used some rubber from work (clark rubber) above my original bump stops (which are getting replaced anyway so it doesnt matter if they crumble) just to settle it down which kind of worked. my car supposedly looks like its front wheels are going to come off the ground :P .

i was driving with the windows open for the first time since i got the engine in the other day (as it has been too cold) and realized that the unsettled front end turning by itself is confirmed as the wheels taking turns at loosing traction (my solution is to not put the foot further then half way and no heavy boosting in the wet cos that sounds like a suicide mission, not taking any chances).

i also inspired a mechanic mate to work on his clubbie 998 that has been sitting in the back yard for a few years. he was smiling the whole short trip and couldnt believe it afterwards.

im going to go to calder when it re opens just have to clamp my battery properly and make a radiator overflow to fit somewhere somehow.

ill try to get some videos up of the beast in action.

did the first oils change very little metal on the sump plug magnet for a first oil change on a rebuilt motor so im pretty happy with that.

i think i found the problem with my fuel guage aswell. i hit the speedo and a half inch spanner fell out :oops: bit embarressing but the fuel gauge works :P

now i need to sort out the speedo and odometer , i know what speed im going but id like the speedo to show the speed im going and not 4 miles under that speed. however i dont know my diff ratio so ill be figuring that out somehow soon.

BIG THANKS TO ALL AUSMINI MEMBERS FOR MAKING THIS POSSIBLE AND TO BEN (92) FOR ALL HIS TECH SUPPORT

look forward to seeing u all at the next meet where hopefully ill be able to stay the full day this time, happy and safe driving all CIAO chris

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:05 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2006 9:45 pm
Posts: 4031
Location: Adelaide, SA
I typed out a big and very detailed response, but my network router decided to turn off jsut before I clicked submit, and when it rebooted all my post disappeared.

A very, very shortened version of my post is simply jack your rear suspension up a bit to get a slight downward stance, and keep your front low. So that when you accelerate the car levels out rather than sticks the front right up. It doesnt look silly and probably handles better.

To keep grip dry or rain, get decent wide tyres. Dunlop D93Js, or Yoko A032/048s or similiar. Maybe A008s but possibly not soft enough, I've never used them.

Maybe you've already done all this, I can't be bothered to read back.

Oh all the above on suspension only really applies to dry suspension, but I assume you have dry as I recall the kit doesn't fit hydro properly, or the stabiliser doesnt at least - or so I recall. If you do have hydro, maybe in the long run consider swapping to dry.

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1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:30 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Location: Baulkham Hills
Congratulations Chris on the Build as SC12 is something I have wanted to do some time now, but I'll get thier one day.

Rebgarding the the Compertition Bumper stops they are actualy for Hydro's and I recomend the rear Only as most of the time it the rear that is shortaning "Sitting down" on the go peddle. I also put some on the front but they only lasted a few months and shat themselves. With the front Hydro's putting Dry Shocks and Mounts give it a much better feel with the compbumper stops on the rear :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:58 am 
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998cc
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Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:17 pm
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Location: Caroline Springs, VIC
Hi all thanks for your responses, it is a hydro set up and i have been considering a dry conversion or possibly the coil overs going around but thats a distant future upgrade. for now im thinking of starting with rear bump stops the front shocks.

Then Disks when i have the money as they will set me back a bit. i dont drive like a maniac and i have well set up very hard pedal on the drums now that im used to it i can drive with out feeling unsafe. altho i still want to change over in the long run.

i was at my local bob jane getting a puncture repair and the only two tyres they can get are the bridgestones and faulkners but id have to double check on the numbers. is a upgrade that will make a big difference altho at the moment i have enough grip that the tyres will bounce and make the car shudder rather then spin, still the extra grip will help overall

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:42 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:11 pm
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Location: Pakenham Vic
i know is a long way from you but give Brian at Link a call i think he can still get Formula R Dunlops, all the traction you need

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:45 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Caroline Springs, VIC
i might do that and get the bump stops from him at the same time, they tuned her up for me. i was completely unprepared and gave them a crap of a job to do and they still did it over night at a good price very impressed by link as all mini dealers i have come across so far

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Enjoy Chris ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:45 am 
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998cc
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Location: Caroline Springs, VIC
I went to Calder park for a drag with my mate just to get an idea of what kind of speed i could run. Had a hell of a time finding traction just couldnt get the power down was insane. ended up running a 17.42 , 17.323, and a 18.1 (cos i was in reverse when the light went green :evil: . after i do some work to the suspension ill go back and give it another go

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:13 am 
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848cc
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Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 12:02 pm
Posts: 120
Location: south auckland
i was running very similar times in my car - wheelspin - traction - clutch slip....... hehehe standard metro clutch not like that much torque :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:15 pm 
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998cc
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Image

Image

And thats why i lose all that traction

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:40 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
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Location: sunbury victoria
ahahah thats a wicked picture :D probably be a crap on the road but if you could make up some blocks that will go in place of the original rubber ones that reduce the droop on the front it would solve some of your issues..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:46 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:15 pm
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Location: Melbourne
That's an impressive amount of squat you have going there.

I have hydro on my Morris 1100, and as I don't have the option of fitting dry subframes, I started playing with the hydro a bit. I have a set of valves to fit in between so I can adjust the 'damping' orifice installed by the factory, but I can also close them off. Now I never tried these out as my last car was destroyed by my brother before I got the chance, but I will be re-installing the valves on the new one.

This is relevant to you because as well as being able to vary the orifice size, you could also close it off completely. So when you get ready to run down the quarter get a few mates to sit on the front of the car, fluid shifts to the rear, close off valves and you have an instant front-down stance for your run. Should help to minimise the weight shift which is causing you problems. I'm sure there are other things you could do as well, but this is one idea I had. I haven't tried it yet but I reckon it would help.

Madmorrie


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