Well, basically... my reason for going small bore would be that I'm getting a deluxe which has a 998cc. Being easy to turn into an 1100cc... that's my option. If I decided to turn it into a 1275... is that just pistons, crank and bore the block or does it require rods too?

With everyone having their opinion (and me having almost no opinion being that i'm just starting out) i'm getting majorly mind f'd... lol.

The furthest you can realistically go in a 998 block is 1220cc, with 68mm bore and Hillman Imp (or bike) pistons and a 1098 crank.
If ya want 1275 or more, you need a 1275...
Plenty of 1275 blocks about, but cranks are getting scarcer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Xamph budy, i know exactly what you mean work out what your budget is and what expectations you have as far as performance goes, and then go from there. Try riffling thru the "for sale section" here if you end up deciding to go for a 1275. Guys on this forum tend to be a little more friendly with their pricing compared to sleezbay. My advice if you do go down that road, try and get as much as you can for your money, you might be able to get a complete motor and gearbox.. if you buy your motor piece by piece it will cost more.

Alot of people do just stick to the motor their car came with. The bonus if you do stick to a small bore motor is that parts are cheaper and plentiful. just a thought

Phat Kat I disagree, as sometimes you can find loose 1275 parts at a bargain price, if bought separately.
eg. my 1412 stroker motor has a (still) std/std crank that cost me $50 (before offset grinding), 3 free S rods out of a broken 1100S motor and another free one from elsewhere. The ARP rod bolts are modified 396BB Chevy, were 1/2 the price of ARP's Cooper S ones. (But these days I use ARP's BB Ford bolts).

And the 1300 automatic block and caps in my 1360 only cost me $100 because it was an auto (orphan).

Just keep an eye out for bargains. There are still some about.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I know this car.. I couldn't get away from it on the hills, and it had a slippy clutch

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

nippondenso 16 v/v twinkie

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

Very true Doc,

I was just generalising (again ). Generally speaking (using ebay prices) you can buy a complete 1275 and gearbox ready to install ancillaries and all for about $1200-1500 (thats based on prices over the last 6 months,,, and all I am going for here is a unit on which to base the findings of that statement).. If you by a bear block with main caps $500, a cylinder head $150, a crank, $120-200 (depending), rods $100, pistons (I avoid buying second hand) brand new with rings $110, cam second hand from $30 brand new cam from $180, rocker gear second hand $20 plus $50 to reco it (otherwise 1.5's are $500ish locally), timing gear and chain $95, new valves $240...

Ok I'm already up to $1500ish. I haven't listed each and every engine component, I just wanted to get to $1500,, and you still don't have a gearbox or transfer housing, or ancillaries... And those prices weren't for go fast components either (which obviously cost extra)...

Sooo,, what I was getting at is generally speaking, it is cheaper to buy a complete unit...

But the Doc is right, NEVER WALK PAST A BARGIN!!! sometimes you can get alot of stuff cheap if you buy it part by part.