"Yes small J 1100S rods are same as Cooper S and take the 3/8 bolts."
Not early 1275 Cooper S rods.IE 177s. ARP bolts will not fit these rods only 521s.

OK, I was aware the early Mk1S 177 rods were different but I've never seen any in an 1100S.

What is the difference in the bolts then? Head shape? If the ARPs don't fit, what do you use now that is any good?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

They do not appear in 1100S engines, just the early Cooper S.
Not too sure on differences Kev. I just had a set and was told that ARP do not supply bolts for these rods.
So I just used a set of 625s.

yep, Ty is right,,, i dont think i ever saw a set of 1772 in an 1100s donk

i believe the 177 rod-bolt is shorter & different shape

i have a set of those old things (rods) sitting down in the shed so i`ll go check right now to make sure,

edit--> back in a sec

2nd edit-->

yep the 521 bolt is longer by a tad & the "thick" shank section is a little further down the bolt to suit also... the head is the same shape & size tho

177 bolt on left,,, 521 bolt on right

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Of course this is still a bit off topic- my apologies.
Wasn't the 177 S rod prone to break near the bolt heads? I seem to remember pics somewhere...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah they are a tad thin in that upper area on each side,,, & that`s in fact why the 521`s were made thicker in that area to help stop that "pulling-in" happening

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Can I get some help with my shopping list for the gearbox and block rebuild, I just want to make sure I get everything I need in one go.
I can think of;
-Gearbox bearings.
-gearbox bushes.
-main cap bearings.
-cam bearings.
-con rod bearings.
-crank thrust washers.
-oil pump (what drive is best?).
-gearbox gasket kits.
-block gaskets.
What else

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Cam selection;
These are two I found in my shed, I'm thinking the top one is a 998 or 1098 but I don't know what the other one is, any help?

And the pump drives, (the one on the left is the top cam).

So I'm thinking I'll cut the one on the top, small lobe, spade drive cam down to use...or is it more inportant than I think?
And what is the other cam from?



Also how concerned do I have to be about overheating the cam when I'm cutting the lobes off with a grinder and then machining it all round in a layth?
And Finally, do I machine it down to the shaft diamiater or is it better/eaiser to just leave the "lobe" sections 1 or 2mm proud of the shaft?

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

I would just do the spider drive cam Kenno,,, it`s out of an 1100S block anyways so it fits your application & you can get an oil pump to suit it,,, all you need is the little spider drive piece to go with it & yo`ure done

&no problems grinding the big chunks off & then lathing the rest,,, that`s what i do mate , easy-peasy


If you chose the small-bore cam-shaft then you will struggle to get a pump to suit,,, & the adaptors that Dave makes for me to use with that application we make them out of 4140 & they`re awesome & we can use the small-bore pin-drive cam & still fit the late spade type oil pump & that`s all wonderful,,, but Dave is out of action having an opperation so he won`t be making anything for anyone for a while

so best to just use the spider drive cam ok

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

You can get the pin drive pump from what I can find http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=194
And the spider drive pump http://www.minis.com.au/minis/catalog/p ... cts_id=195 but I don't have the spider drive gear .
So they are the same price, is their a difference in volume or strength? Also their seems to be just as much or more options via the minisport site http://www.minisport.com.au/category22_1.htm
Should I be looking at the metro turbo high volume pumps or are all the other small bore and 1275 pumps up to the job.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Also my engine is a 1100S (12YD/Ta/H) from what Matt mentioned about the 1100S cam fitting straight into my block, is there a difference in cam sizes or lengths or bearing locations?
I'm just a little bit hesitant about cutting down/using the 1100S crank because I only have one of them but I have half a dozen small bore cams. Plus I would like to use the 1100S cam in another 1275 I have in the shed.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Cams and blocks are all the same length.
People think Vizard said different, but read what he said again.
The pump recess in the block is not as deep on a 1275 (except autos) that's why the Cooper S pump had a longer shaft in it.

I have had spiders made to fit your cam to a 1275A+ slot drive pump. PM me if you want one, but I think Matt has some there already?
You can also TIG weld these spiders (after turning down) into a pin drive cam, I have done a few like this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah Kenno,,, the Doc nailed it (yet again)

that small-bore oil pump you linked to isn`t the right pump for you,,, youi would need an "S" (12175) pin drive pump with the longer shaft & the more robust body,,, but they are a bit hard to find... & you would have to drill & tap the block for the right bolt location of the upper middle bolt to fit.

so,,, you have basically 2 options if u fit the small bore cam->

one: is to use the 4140 adaptor that we have made to suit the pin drive cam + spade drive pump slip it in when fitting the pump & Bob`s your aunty

or grind down & then weld into the pin-drive cam the adaptors that Kev made for the spider drive cam to fit the spade drive pump,,, & yes i have plenty of those here still (cheers Kev)

either way it`s all easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

hi there,
I completed a 1380 twinky 16v build a couple of years ago - currently in my clubman GT, about to migrate twinky to track car, and building a 5 port with injection for the GT.
I had some cast iron allthreads made up for block plugging if any of you twinky builders are in need.
PM me if interested.