Why thank you Doctor!

FWIW, A good friend of mine just moved out to Australia this past to study abroad. She loves it there!

Have any of you tried calipers from a later modeal civic? Like 88 and up?

Also, will calipers made for 9.5" rotors work with the 9.1 inch rotors?

why do you machine the disc and hub to 65mm

cant you just machine the hub to 61mm? so that off the shelf discs fit? i'm thinking about replacement down the track.. dont need to go n get discs machined every time i replace them

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Expert in training

I like the rotors to turn true, not orbit about 1mm like the ones I got from NZ..
The inside of the rotor has a dirty big 45* chamfer and won't locate properly.
If you turn the hub down to 61mm I reckon it will weaken it too much.
So... I just stick the rotor in the lathe and make it 65mm bore- takes most of the chamfer out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do I have to do that kev if i ever need to replace mine?

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Yeah just bring 'em over... but trust me, you will never wear them out!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Picked up a set of 88-91Civic calipers and rotors today for $30 USD. Looks like the 9.5" rotors will clear without a problem, but I have 13" wheels though. I think I could even get by with 10" rotors

The difference in the 88-91 Civic calipers and rotors is:
-9.5" diameter
-Slightly thicker rotor, about 20mm (hard to tell because it was used) as compared to 17mm for the 84-87.

I should'nt have to space the wheel out either. Caliper has the same 140mm bolt pattern and is still 44mm overall thickness. I also put my 9.1" rotor in the caliper. I don't have plates yet, but I think these calipers would work with the 9.1", but you may have to grind a bit of the outside brake pad down to clear the rotor.

Just thought I'd pass the info along.

Here's some pics, if I can get them to work

strange request.. i'm not used to asking for things.

I dont know anyone with a lathe, and was womdering if there is any kind perth mini-ite that would like to give me a lesson in how to use a lathe and turn down my hubs n rotors at the same time..
i have beeeeerrrr

also, can anyone recommend a small lathe (size and type) that would be suitable for most workshop jobs (like bushes and this job) i just wouldnt have a clue what i'm looking for when i pick up the paper

cheers

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Expert in training

Go to Hare & Forbes Machinery House,
Unit 2/15 Brennan Way, Belmont WA and see what they have. You want something with 125-150mm centre height for this sort of work.
Mine is a baby Myford (90mm centre height)- great for tiny stuff, but it won't swing a disc!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Guys,

Im new here, and have been contemplating this conversion (For 10"s) for a while on my Mini in NZ. I have just a few queries that are stopping me from carrying out the conversion and was wondering if anyone could shed some light on them.

As you are effectively adding 25mm offset to the front end, i was wondering what sort of impact this has. From what i can see this cant be a good thing on the wheel bearings. And as the drum-type hub doesnt have the adjustable taper-roller type wheel bearing i would imagine you would go through them a lot, simply due to the extra load on them from spacing the wheel out futher? I would like to know if anyone has had any problems with this.

The other thing that i was wondering is whether the extra offset makes the car feel funny at all to drive. I would have thought spacing out the wheels 25mm would make the steering feel very heavy (as you are moving the tyre away from the centre point of the steering?)

I realise this is only a problem on the cars with 10" wheels as you do not need a spacer for the 12 or 13" conversions.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers, Robbie

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Mini - The Wizardry on Wheels!

I cannot confirm from experience myself but plenty of people on the board have assured me that You Can put timkin's tappered rollers to suit 'S disc hubs inside Drum brake swivel hubs.

have a search around this forum, there's a thread on it somewhere.


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Yes Timkens are all I fit now. They are a direct swap, make sure you buy the kit with the spacer included- it's sized individually.

re the offset- all Oz Clubbies S's have spacer drums all round running 4.5Jx10 wheels, so it's really no problem. Offset with these Hondas and 25mm spacers (or cut-up S drum bits) is the same as these, or a Cooper S.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So this would be the go? -http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=34083 or do i need this spacer you talk about?

Im guessing the backs wouldnt nearly have as much load on them so the standard wheel bearings will do for the moment?

Cheers for the help

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Mini - The Wizardry on Wheels!

Hey Doc-

I had another very important question that has not been brought up. When you machine the dick to 65mm, and the hub to 65mm, you lose the hub-centric ring tha's on the hub. Does this affect anything? By removing that ring, the wheel now becomes lug-centric, meaning the lugs are hwta centers the wheels.

Just something I was thinking about while writing and researching.