Okay guys I'll give you a brief update on how the car is going. I have been advised that I should stop opening the radiator cap when the engine is hot and/or running, that I should just keep an eye on the temperature and water level (when cool). Well the temperature is fine, never above 180*F, and the radiator level has remained constant so far. Still no signs of oil in the coolant or vice versa. Next step is put coolant in as I'm just running water at the moment (and it's a tad on the orange side!)

About four different people today suggested that maybe the frothing was actually caused by cavitation. Don't know how you could check if that was really the case though. Anyway, it doesn't froth anymore, since I've stopped opening the cap when the engine is hot!

Oh and Kev, you were right re 998 heads. It has more torque but FA top end, doesn't go much beyond five grand now!

Anto.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well funny you mention your woes - I had a similar problem with the 998 I have where the crud inside the water jacket gathered and pooled in the rear of the motor - right over the block drain plug. I check my oil regularly(daily!) and one morning I noticed the oil had gone from the normal light brown colour to a light tan colour. My worst fears were realised when I ran my finger underneath the inside of the rocker cover and found the white scum - water in the oil. I subsequently removed the plug in prep to see if the head was cracked(I was hoping not as it was a fully reconditioned 12G202 with unleaded inserts - Berco for $975...) and nothing came out...

I then poked wire and the sorts in the hole trying to get water flow then - DING! - a small drill bit was inserted, turnedby hane and presto - out came the gunk and the water. I devised a cunning plan and went to enzed, found the corresponding threaded hose connector with an elbow(90 degree), promptly screwed it into the drain hole, connected the hose and reverse flushed the entire cooling system. This fixed the problem right away. I removed the head and found the gasket had failed between 3 and 4 because of the over pressure caused by the blockage. Simple to fix but a right royal worry initially.

I would suggest and recommend Berco for any reconditioning of heads(or any general engineering for that matter...)as they were fantastic and the 998 really hoots along now. The1100 head not a performance head but it allowed that little more breathability andis very enjoyable to drive. Good luck and see you when I get back in 9 days

Rob Forsyth
CPOCSM
HMAS STUART
"The Tartan Terror"

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Wait a sec. Isnt it reasonable to expect pressure to be built up under the cap when the coolant warms up and if the car is overheating then especialy it will all shoot up when the cap is opened with a running engine or without sufficient time to cool down? Wouldnt any car with a very high coolant temperature have the same symptoms as Anto's?

Does it froth up when the engine is cool (I mean more than the initial minimal frothing for a few seconds after you start the engine)?

Mike I think you are right, everybody told me to stop checking what the coolant was doing when the car was warm, just keep an eye on the coolant level when cold. Meh, hasn't played up in the last week or so, and I do flog my car!! Better check the coolant and oil this morning before I leave though. My plan is to put a new water pump on before summer, since I'm running a 1973 vintage pump without a weep hole and it could be rooted for all I know. I'll put one of those high volume ones on.

Rob, your problem sounds interesting - I know my coolant drain plug at the back of the block is blocked, always has been I never thought much about it. Maybe I'll attempt to unblock it and flush the system again. Couldn't hurt, anyway.

Cheers,
Anto.