Anyone would think there is no exhaust pipe and you are dumping the gases onto the firewall.

I don't have any heat shield and circuit work hasn't boiled either fluid or melted rubber bits?

Actually the worst problem that crops up is people love to touch the power blisters on the bonnet. They'll say "Is that rust?" and before I get a chance to answer they get third degree burns. I need a sign on it - Looks like rust, smells like burning flesh!

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Daniel,

Got a pic of your engine bay? I have not actually seen it...

Cheers,
Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Here's kazjim's...
man that dump pipe gets hot!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK, bit of an update.
RE13T is ground and ready
Ben has finished the dump pipe and exhaust bend...

Just need the oil drain now.

As for heat, etc...
The cylinders and lines will be protected by heat shields.

For the engine steady, because the dump pipe goes really close to the bush and the exhaust manifold goes slightly under it, it will get nice and soft
We will replace that bush with a teflon type or Brass/Alluminium/etc

Cheers,
Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I'm guessing its not going to be inter-cooled?
and your expecting 160 hp out of the 998? I wonder what sort of figures you'd get form a intercooled one, I guess the efficiency would go up quite a bit especially with 20psi boost...

Here are some pics Grant took at MDU last year. I would say its a good idea to have a heat shield but my experience has not shown any problems, even the enamel paint is not blistered on the firewall or M/C's(but the paint on the bonnet is acrylic).

The only real heat shield I have is between the turbo and the intake manifold underneath to protect the injectors. One of the plugs to the injectors on the passenger side is not covered and the wires have gone hard from the heat.

btw - I don't think you would get 160hp from an 998 without an intercooler unless you run some sort of exotic fuel maybe.





Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

No, the Monster 998 build is a completely seperate one.
The plan was originally to build the 998 screamer... that will happen next year.

This is convering my GR built 1132 to a Turbo... so will be similar specs to Bens (he will have more power is my guess - as I cant run as much boost due to higher compression in this motor)

The 998 will have its own thread when we get cracking... this is an 'in between' project... but still be a very powerful one.

Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Oh, by the way, both builds will be intercooled.
We are setting up the intercooler, it probably wont be ready for a little while though, will go on soon as its done.

Peter.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

DOZ, that`s just an "Up-side-Downed" Metro turbo manifold yeah?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I was just reading through and I like the idea of a screamer 998. (Although I'd use a 1275, ). 160hp should be be easily produced at 20psi of boost. At that boost the car will effectively be approx. 2356cc (with everything perfect). 160hp frp, a 2.35L is only around 68hp per litre. Which shows boost is really the only way to achieve big hp with a small engine. As opposed to pulling 160 hp from an N/A 998, being close to 160hp per litre.

If everything holds together this should be one mean little motor. Might lag a bit though....

<edit> These 'calculations' are just rough ideas, with boosted cars a lot more goes into how much power a car makes and all that jazz. But in comparision to my little beast, and knowing the power that makes vs. how worked it is, I can say that I think the screamer is capable of a lot more than 160hp. If you can keep the charge temp down and get the correct A/F and much more.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Yep. You can see the crack running near the turbo-manifold join on the branch coming from the far port in the top photo. The crack is near vertical sort of black line. It now extends virtually the whole way around.

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Ok, so I got some heat shield material to protect things. Stainless Steel sheet... will be a pain the the bum to cut though.

ARP Head stud kit is ordered, will arrive this week (supposedly) and the rest is done.

Date is set for the 1st December unless something comes up.

Woohoo!
Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Best way to cut S/S sheet (apart from plasma, guillotine etc) I find is an anglegrinder with one of those thin 1mm wide cutting discs.
They cut clean but wear pretty quick, buy a few....
Then deburr it with a flap wheel on the grinder.
Be careful of burrs with SS, they can cut you like a razor blade.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the tips Kev, gotta pop into bunnings I guess and get some cutting dics and flap wheels.

GR told me the same thing... to be very careful on the burrs.

Pete.

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Hmmm, might have to go buy some new SS sheets...

The stuff I have looks wrong. Its SS on the outside but something else inside? Is that even possible. Looks like chrome dipped stuff... wierd.

Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!