beautiful, thanks very much

heres my gearbox, im assuming its a 4 syncro but someone correct me if im wrong because im about to spend a thousand bucks on straight ut goodies im putting straight cut gears in under the impression that 170ish hp is pushing standard gears to the limit.. is that true? i dont want to spend money on them and not need them, although i like the sound

Yeah it's a 4 synchro rod change, small idler gear bearings, NOT A+.
Be aware that 1st gear particularly will be pretty tall taking off uphill, so watch what diff ratio you use...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

so to put that on an a plus motor, do i need to buy different drop gears? im going to get rid of the verto clutch to open my clutch options up a bit, can i put the flywheel cover fvrom this engine (1100) onto the 1275? annd what final drive would you recomend with sc gearbox? i want it to be good on the freeway... i dont mind if its a little piggish away from the mark but obviously i dont want to be revving it to 6 grand just to get it rolling.

with that box (Pre A+) you will need "Pre" A+ drop gears,,, so basically an early pre A+ 1275 type primary will suit the idler gear & the first motion gear that you allready have

you can run a 3.4 final drive set, it will just be a bit tall getting off the mark in first gear, that`s all

i prefer a "zippier" f/d ratio (3.6 or 3.7) as it also give far better acceleration ,,, & the mini engines do love to rev,,, so around about (approx depending on wheel/tyre combo) 4200rpms on the freeway is fine, & the engine is ready to get up & go at that point

but if you`re turbo charging, then a taller f/d is good to help load the blower up & give it something to push against, so 3.4 or even 3.2 is probably to go for "Mainly" highway use

just don`t forget that the taller you go, the harder it is to get off the mark ,,,, slipping the clutch everywhere around town won`t make it last very long

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks for the info, I'd definately prefer a 3500rpm highway rpm but I also don't want to be burning clutches out.. You don't have any spare sc gear sets do you matt?

i have quite a few sets of S/C gears here







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But none "Spare"

sorry,,, couldn`t resist

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

your not a nice person u should sell me a set anyway, for less the the uk ones

does anyone know what the best ratio for drop gears is? and what does this do?

Drop gears are just 1:1, their job is simply to move power from crank height to gearbox height.

on the MED website there are 3 different ratios,

1.1
1.043
1.087

Changing the drop gear ratios it is just like changing the diff ratio. You are just changing it at the other end!
You need to work out what you need and then do the sums.

heres another question, ive been looking at the slark race engineering front mounted supercharger kit.. on an engine in the spec i want to build its producing around 150bhp, 150ft lb of tourqe.. 600 pounds for the kit minus the supercharger..

what do you reckon.. for a guy who doesnt like revving the tits off cars that could be a good option.. but only if ittle be as mental as a turbo car.

sorry for the questions all over the place too

I regularly see 6500rpm+ on my supercharged 1275. The engine only starts to sound amazing over 6000rpm. 'Revving the tits off' of it is it's best feature. 5000rpm gear changes are casual short shifts. Even without a turbo...

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

just dont expect it to last long doing that