do we get under the bonnet type pics?

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68 Mini
70 Moke

Matt, does the Moke bonnet have to be modified, or is the scoop just for looks?

Tim

Smarty, you will have to wait for the underbonnet pics to come out in the magazine,,, but maybe i`ll post them up here after its all tuned & ready, it all depends on how nice you all are

& Timbo, the bonnet scoop was allready fitted, they don`t need bonnet mods on mokes or clubbys to fit the Bimmer Twinky, only the round nose minis need a slight mod to the underside X-member to clear the cam cover is all.

the edit was all about my spelling mistake of "Mait" instead of "Wait",

i speil reel guud ey?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

This is me being nice

I will still buy the mag anyway.....

wouldnt be a mini man if I didnt.....

Wifey would think there was something wrong....


Still being nice.....

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68 Mini
70 Moke

what magazine are you talking about.
have you worked out a costing for the kit yet?

"The Mini Experience"

^^Yep what he said^^

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68 Mini
70 Moke

have you worked what the price will be for the kit yet?

Price would be great to know and also date, how much longer will we have to wait??? Matt u mentioned $2500 earlier, still close? and dose that include head...That sounds wrong but u know i ment.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Yes , we are hoping that Watto from "The Mini Experience" magazine will do a write up & photo shoot on the Bimmer Twinky Moke for us when she`s finished

& it`s looking like we should be able to do the conversion kits for well under $2000 ---> it`s just """looking that way""" at the moment but i won`t have a solid price till it`s all done,,, but the cyl head is not included, as much as i`d like to give you head as well, it`s just not possible at that price

besides, i`m very homophobic

The basic kit consists of the 2 front plates, one for the cyl head & one for the front of the engine block, a small alloy flange piece for the bottom of the cyl head front plate, both adjustable Bimmer cam pulleys, a pulley for the mini cam, & the crank pulley & all 3 pulley bosses needed to mount them all, including a short seal spacer tube & washer to complete the crank pulley package,,, the timing belt & belt tensioner & associated seals for all the shafts.

slight mods are needed to the surface of the block to enable fitting of the cyl head, which any engine reco place can do for you or if you`re mechanically minded & competent you can do it yourself & have the engine reco shop just give the top of the block a quick little shave neat & flat after plugging & redrilling the new holes & threads etc.

you can use the std 1275 head gasket & modify it slightly,,, or you can purchase a copper "Made to fit one" but they`re very very expensive & i havn`t used one of them myself yet so i won`t give any recomendations for them at this stage.

You can feed the cyl head with oil 2 different ways, & you can also drain the oil back down a few different ways & there is also a matter of making some form of oil filling point,,, all of which will be explained in a pamphlet which comes with the purchase of a fitting kit.

sorry but no finish date as yet, but it`s not far off now, we are still playing silly buggas with modifying the front cyl head plate design & once that`s sorted we will do a run of 20 of everything & those who have allready sent me e-mails regarding intrest in the kit will recieve first priority

While i`m waiting for my machinist to pull his finger out ,I`m in the process of fitting a Bimmer Twinky donk into the moke & am having turbo exhaust manifold made to suit a T25/28 hair drier, (turbo charger) & an inlet plenum manifold to suit as well,,, so if anyone is also interested in those items then please do let me know & i`ll try to have a few made in one hit.

I am sorry to keep teasing you all but its all in the hands of my machinist now & we have had some dramas with one of the CNC machines for a while now which has slowed the whole thing down quite conciderably, But we`re back in action now & working through the backlog.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Hi Matt

Does the kit include the computer stuff for the fuel injection nightmare..

I have been doing some research on fuel injection stuff and have decided buy a box, plug in the wires (which i can do) turn key and drive. Too hard and to old to learn this compuer injection stuff

Cheers

Kiwiinwgtn

you know you have to mod the pistons also.
as you also need a aftermarket ecu.
on standard 1275 with mod pistons with 8v head,you are looking at about
100 -110hp at the crank.
by the time you add up the $$$ for this project it's not worth it.
if you are after hp better going on to a turbo or sc12 motor.
the only plus i can see is that it might be more reliable MAYBEE!!!!
injection motor that's the only +++.
about
$1600 for the kit
anyware from $350 to $500 for the head
$700 for the ecu
machine the pistons for the right spec.$??? plus the pistons $170
injection fuel tank mpi $??
about the $3000 to $3500 for 110hp motor,is this right
what was that for the sc12 motor $??

There are many many bonuses about this conversion,

Heat dissipation is one major factor, the alloy head is exccellent in that dept & i have had to use an 88deg thermostat to keep my own Bimmer "UP" to temp.

The combustion chamber shape is also a big chunk of wonderfulness, it`s almost basically a Hemi

Then there`s the cross flow path for power in the higher revs & a very good chamber fill & flame front is produced by this design, why else did just about every car & bike manufactorer go to this same design????? obviously not because it`s crap i can assure you.

Engine managment system to control fuel & ignition speaks for itself,---> just brilliant!!!

& then you have the massive gains in fuel economy (when driven economically of course) these things run on less than the smell of an oily rag when driven softly. & you all think your minis are cheap to run hey>>> hee hee

especially for those who would like to compare replacing your old A series engine with a complete jap eng & box & subframe & brakes & dept of Tpt approvals & handling & gearing woes etc associated with those sorts of huge projects.

This is just a simple head swap (compared) leaving all the std mini subframe & suspension assys in place & no need for Dept of Tpt approvals etc... just a few mods to the donk during the std issue A series overhauling the engine process. & you end up with chunks of reliable smooth, quiet grunt that surprisingly enough sounds & goes just like a late model jap motorbike, except it`s german craftsmanship. Trust me , it will surprise you

Yes The Bimmer cyl head has large(ish) combustion chambers & therfore lends themselves quite well to forced induction & if anyone goes with a big bore engine then i can sort the pistons quite easilly for you to clear the valves. So ...

For small bore applications i am working with some motorbike pistons that allready have the fly cut valve reliefs in them, a friend of mine is setting his up with these pistons as we type. & of course i will inform the masses of the results at the relevant time.

again for anyone undergoing an engine overhaul with views to making it a fast engine, it really doesn`t make much of a cost increase there at all "Comparing" hey? But obviously add the turbo & manifold & intercooler & plumbing of all those items & it does cost money & time,,, But hey... if someone wants "Decent" grunt then it costs dollars which ever way you go. Just that this way is the simplest & most cost effective by far when you talk Bang for Buck & all the while retaining that std happy tossable mini handling ability & characteristics that we all love so much.

Yes add a computer ($750 from Adaptronic syd) wire it up, plug & play & away you go

ok, so lets all do the homework & ask people like GR & the likes to fully re-build & prepare us up a """FULL RACE"" mini power unit with 100+ Hp,,, ask the price,,,go on---> then figure that for the """COMPARABLE"""" power you are getting you can`t really drive it on the street & you will need av gas to run it on, loud, lumpy, rough, hard on other components etc etc etc,,, don`t get me wrong, i love em for racing i have many full race mini engines myself LOVE EM ---> for racing & i use a Straight Cut Close Rato gearbox & drop gears & limited slip diff & & & & & to make it all work,,, Oh, but they`re all cheap items too yeah??? (NOT)

The power spread & delivery is just way way different & a Bimmer twinky doesn`t "NEED" all that stuff.

or you can quite easilly choose to buy a set of bike carbs from the bike wreckers & a simple mod here & there & away you go for a very cost effective way to start,,, i bought a set of 36mm Yamaha 1200 quad carb assys for $50 in good nick a few months ago for this very purpose. Bung in you`re old dizzy & away you go for a very cheap naturally aspirated Bimmer twinky as a starter

I don`t call that expensive at all,,,do you???

There are so many options with this cyl head conversion & i`ve never ever said it was the cheapest thing on the planet. But it certainly is a very very good option for those who want a smooth quiet powerfull mini with a difference.

& yes i do get a whole heap of people asking those wonderfully inocent questions like "Is the price of the kit include the cyl head & the ECU?" Might as well ask me to built it, fit it, wire it up & tune it for you too for that price yeah??? It would be nice & i`d love to say i could, sadly not tho.

Oh!!!! & By the way,,, there is way more room for major improvments in valve & port size increases & Cam shaft upgrades at any time later on too. There is also a K1200 cyl head floating around with exactly those improvments allready done by the factory (if you can find one) & go even further with one of those if you`re keen.

Ok,,, now lets all e-mail Kent Automotive Developments & Jack Knight Industries & ask them why they bothered producing this sort of cyl head to fit ontop of a mini engine---Yeah???,,,, Was it because they thought it would be crap??? I guess not hey???

cheers for anyone informing & showing all the costs & work & time & effort & all relevent information about this conversion on this forum, cool,,,, cause it`s not just a bolt on thing, no... i do suggest a full engine & gearbox overhaul along with the few slight mods to make it all work, yes.

I really don`t mean to pee in anyones pants here, i do want everyone to know all about the conversion before they choose to do it,,, & that`s why i spend half my working days & weekends talking to people who are interested in it, explaining all that is involved,,, most of those people have allready placed tentative orders & i`m strating to think that i may as well do a run of 30 or 40 of them cause once they`re finished they will be all sold out straight away if i only do 20 kits.

I hope no one is offended by what i`ve typed here, i mean no harm & am open to all who offer good words & wisdom & knowlege & experiences openly & happy do here/see it all, i just have sooooo many people interested & the simple facts of them being such a dam nice bit of kit that it`s obvious there are plenty of interested partys both here & overseas that it`s not such a dumb thing to do at all & truely is quite good value for money "Compared" to other similar powered propositions. & that`s a FACT!!!!

BMW did their homework on these things & ran them up at approx 200hp for the equivelant of around 6 years use during their reaserch & development program, then simply tamed them down to 100HP & sold them knowing they would never blow up...

How can anyone argue with that????

Sorry for the long winded write up people but there are plenty of people who like to bag this conversion,,, mostly those people don`t actually have one, nor have they driven one.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

don't get me wrong matty,but i was on the phone to mark at(sc) and he was giving me the run down with this.
to me it seems to be alot of effort for little in return.
other than reliablilty.
if you are after for hp for $ i think it's a bit steep.
you don't get much for your buck.
if your mini is a daily runner i suppose i can understand,
but as a weekender or a garage tinkler,i think the blower or turbo would be cheaper in return for hp.
like you said pistons are the same,turbo pistons or big bore.
so the money is the same in the pistons and machine bore.
but then you have extra's for the other bits need doing to the bottom end,plug ups,retap for k-series
then you have to machine the pistons so they don't hit the valves.
this was all explained to me bye mark at (sc).
i think if people are serious about attempting this project they should consider the book you can purchase from www.special-components.co.uk
to give them the run down of the build.
i myself am going to purchase this book,just see what the cost will really be.
for $50 it's a bit steep but hey,better 50 than maybe $3000 or $4000

SC12 can cost same or more..... up to $6000 with a proper engine build, or more if you go all out.
Most seem to be difficult to set up with good power right across the rev range. The boost is just hard to work with.

Im very partial towards selling the SC12 and going twinky, or 4efte.....

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs