You can buy axles with mini stud pattern from any trailer parts place or Coventrys etc. Cheap as
Oh, be warned - many of these have the larger studs (as per the late model Mokes). Would be a PITA to have different front & rear stud diameters.
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| Author: | leylandohc [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 10:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Beam Axle rear |
Hey guys, well this is my 1st post under this username, Im wondering if anyone has any knowledge of building beam axle rears to replace the hydro subframe, i have allready got the coil overs . My only problem is that the axle has to move the hub outward approx 4 inches on each side and i will have to move the shock mounts with it any ideas on how im going to do this , have seen pics of beam rears and they look (faiirly basic) any help is greatly appreciated |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can buy axles with mini stud pattern from any trailer parts place or Coventrys etc. Cheap as
Oh, be warned - many of these have the larger studs (as per the late model Mokes). Would be a PITA to have different front & rear stud diameters. |
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| Author: | feralsprint [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Why do you have to move the hub out 100mm each side, are you looking at making your rear track 200mm wider, any way a beam is just a bit of 2inch pipe or whatever size you choose to use with mini stub axles welded onto it, you can use a couple of lower trailing arms and coilovers to mount it with a panhard bar to stop sideways movement, the other way is to get your subframe cut so that the rear beam is the part of the subframe where the rear trailing arms are mounted, bolt the beam up to the body loosing all that metal from the subframe that is no longer needed add the coilovers and away you go, not so easy to add 100mm each side this way |
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| Author: | leylandohc [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
just realised that its only about 3 inches i need per side now , because the cooper s rear drums have 1 inch spacers built in and this is what the engineer has specified . I need to extend the track to match the front otherwise is wont pass through d.o.t. have got 5 inch carbon fibre flares to cover the 195/45R13 and extended track both front and rear |
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
aren't mini's wider at the front anyway?..plenty of cars have different track width front to rear.. |
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| Author: | benjamin [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
found these on a site 
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The standard track for a mini is: Front - 1214mm Rear - 1179mm There's more than an inch difference front to rear, I can't see why it would matter for engineering. Look at hot rods and even other open top roadsters, alot run different track widths. |
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| Author: | min13k [ Sat Jan 14, 2006 11:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yeah but josh he is the man who signs of the work so you have to keep him happy he aint happy he sez nope redoit makka |
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| Author: | TurboOrangie [ Sun Jan 15, 2006 5:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did my rear coil overs by chopping off most of the rear subframe. I just left the front beam where the trailing arms mount. Then I took out the petrol tank welded a beam between the shock towers. I welded in sheet metal boxes inside the boot to make space for the coil overs. Then I cut a notch in the back side of the petrol tank for it to fit into. I also widened the fuel tank on the medial side to add capacity back to the tank. I cut the beam out that I had welded between the shock towers for support. I put the coilovers in the car, the top bolts to new holes drilled about 3cm medially to the old shock holes. The bottom of the coilover set up bolts to the stock shock mount. Then reinstall the tank. Now I have a coil over set up with the stock rear track width. I don't think you'd want to do the trailer axle set up, it would be a shame to lose the independent rear suspension. With solid rear axle you would comprimise your handling so why bother with the coil overs. There are easier ways to have a poor handling car. Just buy an american car. lol (funny cause it's true) |
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| Author: | leylandohc [ Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The gaz coilovers are allready sitting in the rear they are offset so it all bolts up with no mods to the body etc or arms , .................I suppose i will just wait and see what the engineer wants done with the rear if anything,, Not like there is nothing else i need to do between now and then |
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| Author: | Volodkovich [ Sun Jan 15, 2006 12:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
TurboOrangie wrote: I don't think you'd want to do the trailer axle set up, it would be a shame to lose the independent rear suspension. With solid rear axle you would comprimise your handling so why bother with the coil overs. There are easier ways to have a poor handling car. Just buy an american car. lol (funny cause it's true) Actuallly, a mini will handle better with a properly set up beam axle than the std. trailing arms. This is because as the body rolls into a corner so do the wheels with the current independant setup. A beam will stay square to the road and ultimately give you more grip. |
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| Author: | TurboOrangie [ Sun Jan 15, 2006 12:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That may be true. But if you hit an uneven surface with one wheel when you have a solid axle set up it also affects the contact the opposite tire has with the road which would affect your handling. I suppose that would be more of a problem if it was the drive axle. Just a suggestion. From my experience with many IRS suspensions and also many solid axles I would pick IRS for the roads in my area. |
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