Yes there is a straight cut gear idler timing gear set available in UK now, lotsa $$$ and I bet lotsa NOISE too.
I'll keep my belt drive thanks, I'm now running a Kevlar competition belt......
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| helical cut timing gears? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15176 |
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| Author: | dbr11k [ Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | helical cut timing gears? |
hello!!! i just bought a 75 leyland s and was wondering if any one new where i could get some strait cut timing gears to replace the duplex set? i seen a timing gear set in mini world made by slark but they wernt strait cut.any hlp? |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Wed Jan 18, 2006 3:57 pm ] |
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Straight cut? you mean belt drive rather than chain drive? The 3 most common type of drives are single chain, double chain (Duplex) and belt drive. If you have a stock 998 then this should be a single chain or Simplex, i don't think it's hardly worth changing unless building new from ground up. There is no extra power in it, it just keeps the timing correct for the life of the engine as chains stretch and belts don't. It's also very hard to install properly without taking the engine out of the car (you need to fit timing dials etc) A new set will set you back lots of wheatbix (try like $600 or so) but I bought one at a swap meet a while back for around $200. Best to build the engine with this mod than to change it with engine in the car... If you already have a duplex then just change the chain and be done with it. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Jan 18, 2006 4:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes there is a straight cut gear idler timing gear set available in UK now, lotsa $$$ and I bet lotsa NOISE too. I'll keep my belt drive thanks, I'm now running a Kevlar competition belt......
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| Author: | smac [ Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you ARE going to go do a gear set, why the need for straight? I asked Slark about the noise issue, and they said at idle it's about the same as a straight cut idler, then with revs largely goes away. He said the noise is dependant on the quality/accuracy of the block machining that has to be done (ie how close the gears end up being) |
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| Author: | dbr11k [ Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:29 pm ] |
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yeh but because im on my l's still i cant have a "high performance" engine so im concentrating on sights and sounds for now (i like the turbo like wur of helical cut gears) i went to the summernats this year and there was a pulsar them. by saying i want gears i mean i want to get rid of the chain all together and replace it with an idler gear in the middle i snapped it because i have a real lumpy cam(and it was old) |
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| Author: | smac [ Tue Jan 24, 2006 5:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I understand what you mean- that is what the Slark set is - you machine the block to take an intermediate idler gear between cam cog and crank cog. No belt or chain to stretch or jump a tooth You say you like the sound of helical gears so why are you after straight? I just had a another look at the slark picture and they ARE straight cut. |
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| Author: | dbr11k [ Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:29 pm ] |
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where didi you see this gear set? in the january 99 issue of mini mag they show a set from slark and they also showed a prototype of a helical cut cog, i was wondering if they have developed it any more (but im too slack too call them) |
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| Author: | GT1360 [ Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
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looking at around $600 AUD + postage from canada |
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| Author: | min13k [ Tue Jan 24, 2006 5:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
noice makka |
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| Author: | smac [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Or $500 including shipping direct from Slark in the UK. They're out of stock (or they were about a month ago) at the moment and can't reconfirm the price until they're back in stock. Look them up, Slark Engineering, pretty good with email responses which seems to be the exception with parts suppliers... |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Looks good, but it's really only race motor stuff, IMO. I've heard it's tricky mounting that idler- its position is super-critical. |
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| Author: | smac [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ya' I looked seriously at it for the motor I'm about to build, but will probably just use a chain and keys. Despite my complete distain of bling I did like the idea of the noise at idle 
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| Author: | dbr11k [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
apparently they need to be within 0.004 and 0.006 of an inch to be right |
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| Author: | Christoph [ Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I dont know why anyone would bother with a setup like that unless they were absolutely paranoid about reliability in racing. Im sure a good belt setup would be strong enough and plus it would weigh less. If you are desperately after whiney noises get straigh cut drop gears... expensive tho just for a stupid sound. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:35 pm ] |
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Christoph wrote: I dont know why anyone would bother with a setup like that unless they were absolutely paranoid about reliability in racing. Im sure a good belt setup would be strong enough and plus it would weigh less.
If you are desperately after whiney noises get straigh cut drop gears... expensive tho just for a stupid sound. I like my belt cam drive setup because it doesn't stretch or make ANY noise- and they reckon it's worth a coupla HP due to no timing scatter compared to chain. I'm now using Kevlar race belts, from Mini Mania in USA. Good for 50,000 miles they say.
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