Evening Gents,

I'm just fitting the brand new ball joints to my hubs. I read up on it in the manual but I don't really understand what they mean in terms of determining how many shims to use. How much movement should the ball have? Should you be able to swivel it around the entire circumfrence of its housing but without and up-down movement (is this what they call float?) Or should the movement be more restricted than that... so you can just manouver it into a good spot for fitting.

Also, I don't have a torque wrench to do a precise job of tightening them up.... whats the general guideline?
a) Finger tight + 3 turns.
b) Tight enough so you have to put some effort in to undo it.
c) Tight as buggery.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

First of all the torque is 72 lb/ft- ie `tight as buggery'.

To set the balljoint up, put as few shims in as possible while just able to move the pin around with it done up `as tight as buggery'. Pin should be a bit stiff, but must move by hand.

I find one way is screw it up finger tight, with the new lock tab in but no shims. Then measure the gap with feeler gauges, and select shims the same total thickness. You can use the edge of the shims as feeler gauges, but a micrometer makes it easy. Then put them in and tighten it up, try how the pin moves.

On the bottom ones you are supposed to take the spring out, set it up as above, then undo it and put the spring in.

Don't forget to knock the lock tab up!

Hope this helps,

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Any tips on how to tighten up the steering arm joints? The shaft just spins inside when I try to tighten the nut.

dewey

_________________
dwightgunning.com

Put a jack under it...gently

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.