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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:19 pm 
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848cc
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What should be the torque setting on the 6 bolts on a 2 piece flywheel?

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Hopefully it set up correctly!


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:25 pm 
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Not in any book I've seen. They are 3/8 UNF so I do them up to 35lb/ft (are same thread as 998 big end bolts).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:43 pm 
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They look like new nuts and bolts ? :?

Are they the correct shanked bolts? Fron what I've seen, these are sized to be an really tight / interference fit, I gues to stop the centre 'fretting' and loosening the nuts, they are also frequently 'staked' with a punch, so I'd use loctite as a minimum!

That's quite a light flywheel! One of Mad Matts? 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:52 pm 
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As Graham says the nuts should be staked with a centre punch in 3 places each.
If that flywheel is a lightened cast iron one, I'd rather not sit behind it at 7500rpm thanks. :wink:
It's much safer to bore big holes through it than mill slots like that. Cast iron has VERY poor strength in tensile, less than 1/4 that of mild steel.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:06 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Not in any book I've seen. They are 3/8 UNF so I do them up to 35lb/ft (are same thread as 998 big end bolts).


The correct Factory Torque for these 6 Bolts is 48 ft/lbs. After torquing, the factory recommends staking each nut in 3 places to the bolts.

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 Post subject: High Tensile Bolts!
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:14 pm 
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848cc
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The young guy gave me 8mm bolts to start. Der..... But he'll learn. They are high tensile and are a very tight fit.
Thanks guys will give it a crack tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:26 pm 
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Can I ask who did the fly wheel (if you Know)..that looks scary to me also are the straps under the three other bolts Flat as they look bent in the pic

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 Post subject: Re: High Tensile Bolts!
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:31 pm 
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Benyni wrote:
The young guy gave me 8mm bolts to start. Der..... But he'll learn. They are high tensile and are a very tight fit.
Thanks guys will give it a crack tomorrow.


Do not use these bolts!

There is a very serious safety issue here. Think about where the flywheel sits in relation to your feet, chest and face. What would happen if it comes apart even at 3000 RPM??????

The genuine bolts, nuts and washers are a special. Do not substitute.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:37 pm 
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998cc
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Ben
Have you still got the old bolts? As Graham says these are a very tight fit and this needs to be right. I will have some of the correct bolts and nuts here if you want them.

Also, has the flywheel/clutch been set up properly? There is a proper way of setting these up. I'm happy to check it for you if you like. Give me a call on 0413 608 522. Be around tomorrow but not Sunday.

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 Post subject: Re: High Tensile Bolts!
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:50 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
Benyni wrote:
The young guy gave me 8mm bolts to start. Der..... But he'll learn. They are high tensile and are a very tight fit.
Thanks guys will give it a crack tomorrow.


Do not use these bolts!

There is a very serious safety issue here. Think about where the flywheel sits in relation to your feet, chest and face. What would happen if it comes apart even at 3000 RPM??????

The genuine bolts, nuts and washers are a special. Do not substitute.

had this same chat with Dr also

Gafmo...Stop Licking the Dog..I don't Care who started it!!!! says:
what about the use of the HT bolts
the Dr is IN says:
they are 3/8 bolts so would only be grade 5 or 8. same as originals, but these are plated
plated ones come from China...
I like black ones better

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:00 pm 
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Jim I never said THESE particular ones come from China, but many do now.
I have had plated `grade 8' 7/16" UNF bolts peel their threads off at 55lb/ft torque.
I'd rather trust black ones every time, thanks. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:23 pm 
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I totally agree Dr but wanted to highlight that some one other than my minimal experiance would not use a so called High tensile nuts and bolts for a crucial part of the engine that could cause major problems if they were not what they should be used for. If one of the these nut or bolt was to let go it would not be nice for the driver.
I WILL YELL NOW GET RID OF THE NUT & BOLT COMBINATION YOU HAVE AND GET NEW OR REPLACE WITH WHAT YOU HAD PRIOR

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:46 pm 
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998cc
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Just on the flywheel machining thing - that does look like one of Madmatts flywheels (his PC has gone belly-up so he's offline for a bit)

It does look scary at first but a lot of work has gone into the machining on those flywheels, he could explain it better but a lot of work was done ensuring they would be safe.

cheers

Jacob

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 Post subject: I have no NUTS!
PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 8:42 pm 
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848cc
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for the concerns. I have rid the nuts and bolts and Steve (Justminis) has kindly found some original ones for the flywheel. The picture is only a mock setup to point out the nuts (and has since been cleaned up to look at least half new.) and no the springs ar enot bent, just the photo is bent. It is also one of Mad Matt's Flywheels. Not such a scary flywheel, quite well machined.

Ben


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:29 am 
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I would lose that flywheel locktab.
Use Loctite 262 on the bolt threads instead.
same deal with the crank pulley bolt.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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