Hi all,

I'm playing around with idea's for repowering my mini.

My current setup is an auto SPi, but I would like to have something that can keep up with today's traffic without having to have the go-pedal jammed to the floor 90% of the time. Basically a mild road mini...

I've thought of keeping my current top end and finding an A+ block and gearbox. I like this idea as I get to keep the engine bay intact with my current wiring loom and aircon etc. It would also pave the way for easy upgrades later on (LCB, roller tips, flowed manifold, K&N filter etc) but I reckon it would be pretty bad from a dosh-to-hp ratio (basically, would cost the same an engine rebuild anyway???). comments?

A specialised 7-port/8-port head is out of the question due to $$$. A Twinky kit sounds nice, but then I would need to chuck the air-con (it is a road mini after all, the missus wouldn't have it). In either case, I would still be stuck with an auto on my current block.

Given this, I'm now leaning to just finding a complete 1275 manual donk (maybe a +0.4/0.6 overbore) and chucking that in. Would probably give a Canems ECU system a try as well, apparently their sequential injection programming gets around the charge robbing normally associated with 5-ports.

Opinons?

I dont really know what a auto SPI feels like but i know a 1275 in good order will keep you inline with traffic with easy if u go the few mods you have mentioned

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Enjoy Chris

auto SPi is feels like - a manual SPi...towing a boat
Also, its getting harder and harder to find someone that can service the things, i'm finding it hard to get a forward clutch for the thing.

So I guess the query is, what's the best (and cheapest) way to get a manual into my car keeping in mind that I probably want to keep EFI.

1. same SPI head, but find an A+ manual block (and probably have to factor costs for rebuilding the engine anyway)
2. Find a good running 1275 complete, and try out the Canems ECU (thinking additional ~$1000 for the ECU would give me a great performing 5 port 1275 - anyone had experience with these yet? http://www.canems.co.uk/).

see if Brickworks has any left in his fire sale .......

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Gee they must be gutless....

Olli is unmodified in any way and undoubtedly has less that his supposed 63hp....but has no trouble at all keeping pace with modern traffic and has been known to give dozy 1970-late 1980's 4cyl autos a fright when he gets off the lights and hits his stride.....

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1969 Morris 1100 S Automatic

ahhhh......the interior smell of an old British car....

I got new forward clutch plates for a 1275 auto from Allans Motors in Parramatta a year or two ago.
This was an old (Morris 1100S) one, I'm not sure if Rover plates are still the same, but worth a call.
Allan's Motor Engineering
(02) 9683 3793
14 Barney St
North Parramatta NSW 2151

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well instead of scrapping the block why don't you convert it to a manual?
I believe that the Mini Man has listed some conversion plates recently... Then just chuck a manual box under it and away you go...

And for bang for your buck for power, I think they say replace the intake and exhaust manifolds, ditch the catalytic converter (if it has one) and regrind the cam. But you only live once so you may as well go all out

Thanks DrMini, I'll give them a go.

Longer term would be to swap out the auto box...still thinking sourcing a whole complete engine/manual box would be the cheaper option then trying to source a manual A+ block and gearbox (then finding out that the block needs a hone, new pistons...blah blah blah).

albino235, I've heard (from one of DrMini's threads) that the A+ auto block does not easily take to a manual box as the oil galleries are quite difficult to modify.

Nah,,, mod to manual is easy

I have the oil pump adaptor plates in stock & then it`s only 3 drillings, (2 for the oil galleries & one for the dip stick hole) mod the oil pressure valve seat (rip it out, block up the 2 extra holes & whack it back in) & you`re done

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Details are in my how-to thread in this mini mods forum-
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1461

Note that converting the very late Rover A+ auto ones is more of a problem, details at end of that thread.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

problem with modding to manual is that you've gotta source a gearbox, and all the manual SPi gear that goes with it (pedal box, different sensors, ECU ???), and rebuild the motor as part of the job. The subframe is different, but that's an easy fix with a spacer block

Josh (aka MiniImports) is doing good prices on SPi manuals, he has one on ebay at the moment for about $3K

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Curious, what is your budget? is it $1000 or $3000? that would help as the suggestiong given here are all on the expensive side (many $1000's).

If you just want more oomph for cheap, perhaps extractors and or a new cam is all you want?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Budget is about 3.5K but is somewhat flexible. I'm looking for the sweet spot in terms of dollars to HP. ie when its gets to the point where I have to spend 50% of my initial budget to gain 5% more performance, then I would stop. on the other hand, if spending an additional 10% meant a 60% gain in power, then I would really consider it.

Based on the confirmation on the difficulty/cost of adapting an auto A+ to manual, I'm leaning to finding a clean complete 1275 manual motor and adding the Canems ECU injection. Clean, Reliable 100Hp+???

Well if you can find a manual motor in good condition and add you ecu, new cam etc. But most engines you find are not in good condition and really need a rebuild. What some people call a 'runner' is really a 'rebuilder'

I suggest you look into "bolt on mods" to get you some power, cam, extractors, possibly some head work?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K