Hi, all , can you dismantle a remote shift (mini K ) type diff assemble & fit pot type joints? Will be making some reasonable HP in the future & I'm no expert but these rubber uni things just don't look strong !!

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figjam

I'm using Cooper S steel universal joints, and for me they've held together on well over standard Cooper S power. Pot joints should be fine also, but I think the rubber joints might not be as bad as you think.

I'm sure someone one here will have put loads of power and torque through a set of these.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Yeah not an issue at all.
Diff needs changing for pot joint outputs.
And the diff end covers need machining up to clear some casing parts.

Not a big job.
I think Chong / Dr Mini can fill you in with pictures. That'll help you.

Rubber joints were designed for std engines and are crap. I would put pot joints on for sure.

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Whilly when you say change the diff, can i use pot type diff centre bolted to the original crownwheel & fitted into the original diff housing ? With some external mods for clearance of the pots . Is that right? Thanks Russell

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figjam

Just take diff out and swap the early output shafts and yokes for some pot joint ones. Side covers you have fit OK.

Pot joints are strong, maybe not as bulletproof as Hardy Spicer `S' ones but good enough for most purposes. And on a road car they take less upkeep.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the reply's guys - great help , Russdog

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figjam