just a quiry,

to convert to unleaeded i just need hardened valve stem seats, (are theese the same as valve stem cells??)

anything else???

cheers,

blake

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ausmini member 195

71K 'Kaye', KAZZ69's work in progress
66 panelvan, going no where fast...
71 MS75 toyota crown COUPE yes A COUPE!
76 ra23 celica wid 1ggte, GT3071r, 13.5@106mph with alot of spinin....

wheels keep on turnin!

No, unleaded valve seat inserts are not the same as valve seals..
Fitting them is a job for an engine reconditioning shop.
There's one around the corner from you, Philp Bros..
They need to have about a .004" interference fit.

Or, if you know a friendly toolmaker with a decent milling machine who works for nothing, use him! Last set I got done the toolmaker shrunk them in with liquid nitrogen..
You can get the inserts from MiniSpares UK. Repco here used to sell inserts but I dunno if they still do. Ping MiniK and ask him..

<edit> no, you don't need anything else.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

he even anticipates the next question.
now ur just showing off

dr trim... the "anything else" question was in the original post

ahh so it seems.

Or buy a head that had already been done and the seller didn't know

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Doc...I think there was some tongue in cheek there with the reference to "stem cells"

Only exhaust seats need the hardened treatment.....

believe after the guides are inserted, it is a good idea to run a reamer down them to ensure no insertion distortion and to check they are the correct size.

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"Show me the Mini!"

(YaTaH wrote "Only exhaust seats need the hardened treatment....."

True. Inlet valves don't get hot enough to erode (micro weld) the seats.

NOTE: (engine reco dude usually does this bit)
The valve seats in the inserts need to be reground after they are fitted. If fitting guides, do that, and ream them first before getting seats reground.
BTW I find the reamer usually takes nothing out of stock cast iron guides, but the bronze ones tend to close a bit after fitting so MUST be reamed. I use a standard 9/32" solid reamer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sweet,

anyone got a good cond 295 head with hardened zorst seats going cheap?

heheh

cheers, another quiry solved!.....and more money to spend!

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ausmini member 195

71K 'Kaye', KAZZ69's work in progress
66 panelvan, going no where fast...
71 MS75 toyota crown COUPE yes A COUPE!
76 ra23 celica wid 1ggte, GT3071r, 13.5@106mph with alot of spinin....

wheels keep on turnin!

I had the 12G202 done on my clubby but had the whole lot done. It is also adviseable to use the cooper S seals as well(well I think they look a whole lot more effective than the standard items...lol). Another good idea is use a upper cylinder lubricant as well(maybe I am paranoid!!) but I found that it aids in the cleaning of the fuel system as well. I recommend Flashlube and dont buy it in the single shot syringes - buy the 500ml bottle(bought it from the then called mini merchandise 2 years ago and still have a quarter of a bottle left)

Rob

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Flashlube is even cheaper in the 1L bottle. Or, buy a 20L drum....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Lol - well why dont we go for the 44 gal drum. Jokes aside the lube does wonders for the plugs...got that lovely light tan colour to it. However it is a bastard to get out of a navy uniform when you try and swat a wasp whilst holding aforementioned lube prior to dispensing into tank in middle of Fyshwick. Not impressed(but caused numerous giggles from the watching motorists...).

Rob

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!