I'm considering buying (if someone has one for sale that is) the recommended 12G202 head for my morris 850, a have a couple of questions.

1. Will it bolt straight on?
2. How much would it cost for a 12G202 head?
3. How much does it cost to be reco'd (approx) for a daily driver?

Thank you in advance

Assuming the head hasn't been shaved and you aren't running a cam that's too aggressive or offset ratio rockers it will bolt straight on . If the heads shaved etc the valves may hit the block but I've never had a problem with it .

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itty bitty 850 valves probably wouldn't, would they?

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Valves won't hit the block (unless exhausts are over 27mm) on a 202 head whether 850 or 998, you only really have that problem with 1275 heads on a smallbore.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sent an email to brickworx they can supply them as is or rebuilt or straight off a rover 998 already converted to unleaded.

Would it be worth going the rover 998 or get a 202 rebuilt for unleaded, should it be port polished?

I don't know alot about it so far just trying to get more information so i can get it ordered and then attempt to fit it.

Thanks for the info everyone i really appreciate

The one I have on the sports850 is a standard head and it boosts the performance nicely , you could go further with the port and polish etc if you wanted (my next step is a pocketed block and 12G940 though ) but you'd most likely be happy with it standard . Up to you really as to what your budget is and how far you want to go with it .

Anybody know how good the later heads are flow wise and valve sizes ? Just make sure you aren't going backwards with smaller ports and valve than what a standard 202 had otherwise it sounds good considering they've already got the valve inserts .

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The later Clubby `smog' 998 heads are about as good as your 850 one is.
Valve sizes are still 1.090" inlet, 1.000" exhaust, inlet ports are pretty small. So much for 25 years progress...

BUT yes they can still be ported OK, you just need to take more metal out to get there.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah nice work, thanks for that.

So the best bet would be go for a rebuilt 12G202 unleaded, probably skip the port and polish for now.

I'm keen to get this ordered soon so i can install over sometime off i might be having (pending the boss man's approval).

Any tips for a noob when fitting the head?
I have workshop manual series 64 by scientific publications, it basically says remove the obvious parts, make sure the cylinder nuts are removed in correct order and put the new one in.

Is there anything else i should replace while im in there? (without going crazy).

Thanks again.

How's the cooling system working ? Definitely replace the bypass hose while the heads off (use some heater hose rather than one of the concertina ones) and possibly water pump if it's old and you suspect it isn't working as efficiently as it should .

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I've seen silicone bypass hoses advertised - any advantage to justify the cost? - I realise heater hose is cheaper and more readily available just thinking if there was a quantum leap of difference it may be worth it.

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

The advantage is BLING, and maybe they won't eventually rot out like rubber does.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Why cant you block off the bypass ?

You can and I've done it before , if you do that though you will need to drill a couple of 1/4" holes in the thermostat to let water flow through it when closed (that's what the bypass hose does , let's water bypass the thermostat when it's closed) . I used to do it but now just use new heater hose instead as it's quicker and rarely breaks unlike the concertina type .

Not sure on the silicon hoses as I've never used one but they are supposed to be better .

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I just use straight 1/2" heater hose like the Cooper S always did- I've never blown one of these.
Avoid the concertina rubber ones, they are rubbish...

I also make brass bypass adaptors for the head, these never rust out... unlike all the originals.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can you pm your address and cost for the brass bypass fitting.
Cheers Tony.