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| Cost of dyno check? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44353 |
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| Author: | Flute [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Cost of dyno check? |
My 45 weber goes on next week with LCB's and a new 123 ignition. Anyone know what a dyno check costs roughly? It has been suggested that I get one done to get the weber set up correctly. Cheers. |
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| Author: | Davo111 [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dyno check |
Mate, check out an Ultratune store, they actually check and test the car under load by running them on rollers whilst checking things out, that may be cheaper and more practical than a proper dyno joint, anyway just a thought. Check out new signature..... |
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| Author: | Flute [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Love the bonnet. Would Ultratune even know what a Weber carby is? and how to change the jets, correctors etc. etc. ? My mini man knows a dyno bloke that apparently knows webers inside out, just not sure what it will cost. I will be asking that tomorrow but thought I would get an idea from asuminiers and whether it's worthwhile. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
there's no point going somewhere that will just run it on the rollers and tell you that it's rich or lean without being able to fix it.... go with someone who knows minis, and knows webers when I was 18, I f*cked my motor within months of putting on a weber that was all wrong |
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| Author: | DOZ [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Before you run it on the dyno, let us(ausmini) know the jets/chokes etc in the carb and your head/cam/compression ratio specs. If you don't know what I'm taliing about then this might help. 
A dyno is a good place to tune, but can be equally a good place to totally f things up (assuming its a rolling road you are talking about). Daniel |
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| Author: | 1310/71 [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well done Doz - that's gotta be worth a sticky or at least laminating for the garage wall. Cheers KB |
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| Author: | Flute [ Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for your good advice all, I am no expert but took DrMini's advice a while back and bought the book on webers so I know the parts. I had the weber fully rebuilt by a reputable weber specialist (a couple of old timers who have been around long enough to know)(the first one I bought ended up in the bin!) and they also have fitted them to a number of minis amongst other cars. They have set it up for a good starting point based on my cars engine (1310 Cooper S with so called mild cam (type unkown) and LCB's to go on with weber) (I will have to find the weber specs again, its a 45DCOE13 but have to look up what parts went into it on rebuild) and then I am having it fitted by Mini Spares and Repairs in Seaford. Toby Tyler has done a number of these including their race cars. I am confident they know what they are doing. They also have a reputable 'rolling road' dyno specialist who knows webers and has done many of their minis. I have recently been told by a number of people not to put the weber on at all and others who say it will be great. I will be keeping the SU's but will put the weber on and find out for myself. I guess a dyno check will be a small price to pay to try and get the most out of the weber. I will check and post the specs when I find them. Cheers. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Thu Jul 31, 2008 2:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sounds like you are doing it exactly the right way - let us know how it goes 
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| Author: | Flute [ Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I won't know the specs on the carby until I drop the car off now because the carby is waiting at the mini workshop. Any advice on what it should have in it for my 1275 (1310) 69 S engine? I will be putting the ceramic coated LCB's on too if that makes any difference. Also, a redline short (so I don't have to cut the firewall) manifold that has been ported by GR and outside only ceramic coated and I have a ramflow filter with soem of Dr Minis stub stacks. I'm bloody hoping this all works. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Make sure you fit a Unifilter foam, not the l y n x one... which falls apart and is too restrictive. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Flute wrote: Any advice on what it should have in it for my 1275 (1310) 69 S engine?
just go with what Toby says to use, that way if it's not right, he'll keep working on it because he wants to make it right, if you suggest something and it's not right, he'll say "I told you so" |
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| Author: | Flute [ Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good advice Simon K and yes Dr Mini, I have the filter you told me to get ready to go. The ramflo one is gone. This project is finally happening after seeking advice from Dr Mini over a year ago and having all the parts sitting in boxes. I will post some pics and a report once its done. I went and picked up my Smiths tacho today which has had an electronic ignition conversion so it will work with the 123. |
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| Author: | Beanie [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
DOZ wrote: Before you run it on the dyno, let us(ausmini) know the jets/chokes etc in the carb and your head/cam/compression ratio specs.
I've got a stock A+ 1275, running a Swiftune SW5 cam, Maniflow small bore LCB's, with a 40mm Weber (ebay special) on a 4" manifold.... It runs fine, but sounds flat. Ign timing is currently set at 8 degrees btdc. Any clues so as to what my baseline settings should be? Cheers |
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| Author: | willy [ Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
And the plot thickens |
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