Does anyone know the out put voltage of the instrument voltage regulator.

10 volts - I make an electonic one for $20 inc postage

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

And they work great.
My car had a problem with the fuel gauge, the faster I went the lower it read. Then you watched it come back up at the lights...
Fitted one of Wombat's and it's steady as a rock.
Apparently the road vibrations were affecting the mechanical V regulator (which is really just a bimetal strip) and it was dropping the voltage.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So is it part of the fuel gauge? I took the unit off the back of the spare speedo I have and it appears to be integrated with the fuel gauge.

Is the car a `61, if so it doesn't have a 10V regulator on back of speedo.
The tank sender for these is different too.
You can tell this early type- when you turn the ign ON the fuel gauge immediately goes `boing' up to full or whatever the level is.
Later ones have the needle well damped. The bits are not interchangeable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It is a 61, but when I got it it was a collection of boxes with stuff from at least 2 mini's, 1 morris, 1 Leyland. As a result I can't be sure of anything. But the speedo that I am running is a silver/white face that looks quite old.
Both the speedos have a single spade on the left when looking at the back and a double on the right. The fuel gauge is all over the place sometimes its hard on the full rest most of the time on the E rest and on special occasions it reads a 1/4 even if its full. I am running my temp gauge of the reg and that is the gauge I feel I can't trust right now. It shows real hot but under the hood there is no sign of excessive heat.
Anyway that is my situation for those who would like to offer an opinion.

A temperature guage, usually needs to have a voltage stabilizer (ie. 10v regulator) for it to read correctly so that is most likely the cause of your engine running to 'hot' of course you can always check by sticking a thermometer in the radiator top tank...

Smiths made 2 similar ranges of temp gauges in the 60s & 70s. Mini etc ones ran at 10V, the aftermarket ones ran direct off 12V+.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.