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Which drive train?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4866		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  WhoDat [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 2:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Which drive train?
Please clear up some confusion for me. Which is the "best" type of drive train system :?:

I know there are rubber or steel universal joints and I believe that the steel ones are reportedly the preferred because they don't perish on contact with oil like rubber do. I had rubber ones on the van but they have been changed to new steel/nylon uni joints.

So where do these "pot" joints come into the equasion :?: I believe they serve the same function [ie transfer drive from the diff to the drive shafts on the way to the wheels] but which technology is better :?: or is it a different strocks thing where one type is better for a specific application like rallying verses drag racing :?:

I have steel uni joints - should I be looking to convert to pot joints??? I want my drive train to be as stong as possible because the plan is to pump some serious HP through it later.

Cheers Dat
Author:  Mini Mad [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm not sure about strength, but i'm pretty sure you lose less power throught the drive train with pot joints..

Pot joints are generally on rod change cars, but can be converted to go on the remote housing..

Pot joints are a PITA when pulling your motor out and even worse getting them back in..ask Baracade ;)
Author:  simon k [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
my opinion is that pot joints are the best compromise between cost, strength and maintenance free'ness. They are a nuisance when getting the motor in and out, but generally worth the effort over rubber unis. I don't have any experience with the steel/nylon variety. Cooper S (and matic) hardie spicers are great when getting the motor out, and don't seem to have wear issues, but they're expensive.

just my $0.02
Author:  WhoDat [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 5:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
"hardie spicers " - what ones are they?

These are mine and yes they were expemsive to replace new only a few months ago.
This pic taken from under the car
Image
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
Those are Quinton Hazell QL5000 joints, $105/pr at Karcraft etc.
I believe the joint inside it is a Triumph TR6... :wink:

Hardy Spicers are the S or MiniMatic ones, normal car type steel U/J onto a flange with 4 bolts.

Advantage of pot joints over both these types- they are a true C/V joint, run smoother than U/Js, less power loss. :P

Note- if you fit pot joints to earlier cars (pre-73) the bloody shafts won't fit thru the subframe, unless you disassemble the pot joint.... :x
Author:  simon k [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
Hardy Spicers are the S or MiniMatic ones, normal car type steel U/J onto a flange with 4 bolts.


like this on the matic motor I got the other week.... and I defy anyone to find a filthier motor than this - the pic is taken from above :shock: :shock: :shock:

Image
Author:  WhoDat [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well I paid a little more than that from a supplier here in Adelaide - but that's SA pricing for you. So these are good/bad? Triumph? that can't be bad surely 8) Keep them or aim to swap out for pot joint's?

I have been doing some "collecting" and now have 2 sets of these and and a pair of pot joints to chose from. Is it worth the hassle to change over? To be accurate I only have the diff ends of the pot joint set, I would have to "aquire" the drive shaft ends of the joints. So how much would this set me back?

The Doc says - 'Hardy Spicers are the S or MiniMatic ones"
Sorry this statment has not relevance to me, I have never seen an S one or a matic one so I have no reference point to go by for a comparison.

I take it that Hardy Spicers are different to mine in the picture, but your description is a close description of mine so I remain a little confused. Mine are a cast central cross with nylon bushes on the 4 ends of the cross [suspended on small roller bearings] and held into the uni-joint housing by 4 U bolts [2 bolting to the engine side and 2 to the drive shaft side]. What is different about Hardy Spicers to mine? or are mine just a form of Hardy Spicer Uni-joints?

Sorry - slow learner
Author:  simon k [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
hey whodat... simultaneous posting.... see above
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Those U/joints, flanges and diff shafts are worth serious $$ now. Note the `matic side covers (can't see for crud) are not S ones, and won't fit a manual trans.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 7:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
WhoDat, the Triumph U/J inside yours is actually a Hardy spicer, (bigger size) adapted to fit the early drive yokes. Yes they are OK, except probably for all-out racing with big HP. :wink:
Author:  WhoDat [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Kool thanks guys.

So plan is to stay with the existing Quinton Hazell QL5000 joints untill i get to the point of generating serious HP [I'll revist this one when we pass the 100hp at the wheels mark LOL]

Thanks again
Dat
Author:  simon k [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
WhoDat wrote:
Quinton Hazell QL5000


Quinton Hazell QL5000 does sound cool, when you're talking to someone who is pretending they know all about minis, drop that into the conversation and see if they go "wooo, wow, that's serious" :lol: :lol:
Author:  WhoDat [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
:lol:
Author:  willy [ Thu Feb 17, 2005 9:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
:lol:
Author:  CLUBMAN [ Fri Feb 18, 2005 7:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
hey,
is that pic the back of a MGA or MGB gearbox?just dont look like a mini and looks a tad big :shock:
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