Hi,

Has anyone got any experience with the above brakes with a std non servo master cylinder, Mine just don't seem to brake well enough and have enough pedal feel to them

Im looking at going to a wilwood pedal box with 9.5" vented rotors and 4 pot calipers


Thanks,


Ash

I have these on my race car and they work very well
I use a mazda master cylinder though can take a bit to bleed which gives a spongy pedal if you don't get all the air out.

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Iv never met a harder car to bleed, ended up taking it to brake place in despair and they back bled it.

Its the late type vertical master, the pads probably need bedding in too

most 4 pot callipers have really average pedals, i think its because the masters are designed for single piston brakes... they dont push the right fluid levels for the application.. (im retarded so that may not be true) i think different master cylinders could fix your problem, having said that after getting used to the pedal feel my metro turbo brakes stop excellently, what compound are your pads, if they are a racey type pad they could be pretty c rap on the road as the heat isnt in them

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Potato

The Pads are EBC Greenstuff, which are fairly hard

Im looking into the Wilwood box as this has diffrent pin diameters and would give higher pressure im led to believe, perhaps i will take it out and get a few more km on it & flush it out before i make a decision.

The clutch is very savage at the moment so im hoping the new box would fix this as well

I have the "MINISPORT" 4 spots on my Rally car and have never had a better pedal in any race car Ive had, even with an un-boosted mastercylinder, however, Ive chased a "good" pedal for 6 months in my Grp N car with std calipers.... I'm still sure its just a tricky circuit to bleed properly....I'm sure someone on the forum has some magical procdure !

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1964 Grp Nb Cooper S
1976 911 3.6 Circuit Car
1969 911T Grp Sb Historic Racer
2009 LC200 V8 TDI.... 660nm..
2011 Golf VI, TSI

I hope that they do, When i was having issues with the master i was after a bleed sequence but there isnt alot of info on the Rover gear over here.

I have just been made aware that the rover pedal box is slightly diffrent to the early one im running. So either i invest in a rover box or go for the full wilwood setup...Hmmmm,,, or i can just persist with the current setup and hope for the best

I have the MiniSpares alloy 4-pots in my road car, and with the standard plastic-tank brake master (0.7" diameter) I get pressure at the pads about a quarter of the way through the brake pedal travel, and full brake application at about half travel.

I put this down to the extra fluid volume needed to move the 4 pistons.. performance definitely isn't affected, just the pedal position at which the brakes start to work.

I've thought about fitting a later 0.75" master cylinder (Karcraft have these) but frankly the little extra pedal travel doesn't warrant the cost.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

It got the May 85 onwards stepped bore 17.8 / 19 mm (.700 / .748) Master on with disc / drum proportioning valve & braided lines all the way around.


So far most people reckon its a good setup so i will stick with it and see how it goes on the track day, if i have issues ill look into it again,


Is anyone using 9.5" disc setup here? if so i would like to hear from you

metro 4 spots and green stuff pads on mine.

metros a b@#$h to bleed and the green stuffs just don't seem to get up to temp on the road.

greenstuff's were great in my high hp series 4 rx7, but when i can fund it i'll be 'down-grading' my pads in the K.

good luck

I've got 235mm (9.25") TAROX 6pots on my car and they are absolutely brilliant, i got mine vacuum bled and i just tap the pedal and get pressure.

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