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Cam Profile? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51663 |
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Author: | redrocketrider [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:35 am ] |
Post subject: | Cam Profile? |
finally got my sheet from Crow cams with my cam specs, anyone know if this is any good? advance ground on cam 1 lobe separation 110 .050 valve timing inlet opens 2, exhaust opens 4. btdc closes 40, bbdc closes 0. a.b.d.c .050 duration 222, a.t.d.c .050 duration 222. Advertised Valve timing inlet 26, exhaust 66. BTDC closes 64, BBDC closes 24. ABDC advertised duration ATDC Advertised duration 270. Inlet love lift at TDC on overlap .054 inlet lobe/valve lift .2643 Exhaust lobe/valve lift .2643 Inlet/exhaust rocket ratio 1 inlet/exhaust valve lash .016. |
Author: | justfanginaround [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:12 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
mild road about 1 step up from std 1275 |
Author: | redrocketrider [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:47 pm ] |
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so not bad for a 998? |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 8:52 pm ] |
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Similar to BMC's 731 cam. Yeah should be OK in a roady 998. Not much valve lift there though. I'd prefer Graham Russell's RE13. ![]() |
Author: | mini7boy [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:40 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
don't mind me. I;m just shameless about asking questions. No harm meant as I'm just born curious. Why did you decide to go with a Crow cam when there's so much excellent information on this very forum about cams like the Russell RE13, Swiftune SW5, etc? You're right. It's none of my business at all. |
Author: | mini7boy [ Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Dr. --- have you ever read what Vizard had to say about the 731? Was he wrong? He had nothing good to say about it. Nothing at all. Maybe things are different down your way, but I have never heard of many U.S. people running the 731 in anything. Hardly any as a matter of fact. Don't worry Red.... it's near impossible to discern very specifically what a given cam will do based on a stack of numbers. AC Dodd places a lot of importance on the "lift on overlap" figure, but then makes general comments about a cam based on it. Another problem is that people measure duration using all manner of checking heights, so it's hard to digest any duration figures without knowing the valve height used for checking. Some use .016, others use .050, etc. I've always thought the best indication of a cam's performance is feedback form people who have run one in an engine similar to your own. Expert opinions can also be useful if the expert has experience with a given cam. Even the experts, however, have trouble being too specific about a cam's performance without actually trying one. They've been surprised lots of times. |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:23 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Yes I have read Vizard, repeatedly. ![]() I ran a 731 in my 1310S motor for years, yes it's a bit limp down low in a 1275 but for a road motor it wasn't that bad for an old skool cam. At least it had some top end, unlike an S stock cam. Offset bushes in the rockers helps the lift problem a bit. I reckon a 731 is better suited to smallbores than 1275s. I replaced it with a VP3 (Camtech Australia) which was much worse down low but had more midrange and a great top end (OK, it then had 1.5 rockers too). When that cam wore out in 45,000 miles I rebuilt the motor as a 1360 and fitted an RE13, with 1.5 rockers. Even better midrange and similar top end. I currently run an RE282 and 1.5 rockers in it, it's the duck's guts ![]() |
Author: | redrocketrider [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:58 am ] |
Post subject: | |
well i got a crow cam because thats what the workshop put in, It was fully rebuild my 998, bored 40thou, its what they could get in stock for a mild cam I guess. |
Author: | simon k [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:07 am ] |
Post subject: | |
redrocketrider wrote: well i got a crow cam because thats what the workshop put in,
It was fully rebuild my 998, bored 40thou, its what they could get in stock for a mild cam I guess. unfortunately unless they're into minis, all they do is call their regular cam supplier (Crow, Wade whatever) and get whatever they've got.... whereas we need to go looking to the people who know minis back to front |
Author: | redrocketrider [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:10 am ] |
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well hopefull It wont be to bad, just put a new ring gear on and clutch assembly, does anyone have an engine wiring diagram for a 76 leyland? |
Author: | simon k [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:13 am ] |
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redrocketrider wrote: well hopefull It wont be to bad, I'm sure it'll be fine - it'll be better than standard redrocketrider wrote: does anyone have an engine wiring diagram for a 76 leyland?
have a look on ebay for the Gregorys manual with the red(?) clubman on the front - should be able to get one for $10 and it's a necessity. It'll have all the wiring diagrams in it |
Author: | mini7boy [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:56 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
OK. That's a good lesson learned, Red. The irony is that with Mini parts, the good parts often cost little more than the mediocre parts. Not always, but often. A good regrind from Russell wouldn't have cost much more(if any) and you'd know you were getting the best. You'll probably do your next engine differently. We all have to learn somehow. |
Author: | simon k [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:21 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
mini7boy wrote: The irony is that with Mini parts, the good parts often cost little more than the mediocre parts.
very true Dad needed a new distributor cap, I told him to get Link to post him one, but he went to his local Bursons - they charged him $72 for it, I laughed and said he should ring Link, $34 plus $5 postage |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 2:59 pm ] |
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Bursons have lost me, they are too dear on most things. And my local carries bugger-all stock. I mean, only 1 bottle of Loctite rust converter?? ![]() ![]() So I went to AutoBarn, plenty of stock and $2 cheaper. |
Author: | mini7boy [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:41 pm ] |
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I can't get over the price of that dizzy cap, simon. I can only guess it wasn't Chinese, eh? Or did it come with a fortune cookie inside and have bad breath? |
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