Hey All,

Well this was kinda started in another thread but thought it might be useful to give it its own thread.

I have pulled the head off my 1275 a plus and I am wondering while the head is off what should i renew, replace service.

From some very helpful on here so far I have got

- Valve stem seals
-skim the head
- valve guides

What else would you replace if you had just pulled your head off?
What would you check out and see the condition of?
Sorry for the questions but engines scare me lots as they are so easily breakable if you do the wrong thing.

de-carbon everything (sure you were going to anyway)
cleck valve seats and re-lap if neccesary
check if the block deck is flat

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78 Leyland Mini - Prince

Machine the valves and seats. Check valve stems for wear. If worn (or if valve heads thin or burned) replace the valves.

I found 1275A+ exhaust valves a bit hard to find last week.
Karcraft now has none (had 3) and neither do Mini King or a few other southern states parts suppliers.
I finally got a 4th one from Mini Spares at Padstow.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Its funny how Larry at Mini Spares Padstow is the last person you ask and he has it in stock, he had the only full set of Rimflow 1100 valves for my 12G295 in Australia

Anyway back on topic, yes I would strip the head and get it hot dipped , surfaced and rebuilt, valve spring caps, valve stem seals,valve collets,valve guides etc and a new gasket set,new thermostat and temp guage, and have a good look at the waterpump too.

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Hey Guys,
Thanks for the feedback.

I have already replaced temp gauge and water pump.

The thing that I find really hard is not having the knowledge to know what is worn and what is still good. It only comes with experience. I have a local mini guy near where I am working on my car ( east west auto's in Moe,Vic) so I might pop down to him for a visit and get him to have a bit of a look at the parts. I guess I could also strip it down and post up some pics on here.

The car has done about 10,000 - 15,000 miles since its build so might be time for some new shiny bits i guess.

I live in Sydney's northwest, I don't go as far as Padstow for my holidays...
The reason Padstow still has them is John Smidt (MiniKing) left 24 there when they separated.

Makes me wonder how these Rover Mini-owning people get on when they need any spares.. now Brickworx is out of it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Take the head to a good place that does head re-conditioning and let them check it for you.

I just recently did this and would recommend a place to you but it would be one hell of a drive for a good head job (hehehe).

Basically, I had hardened valve seats put in, new valve guides (actually they may have been lined but I am unsure) and it was pressure and crack tested and the rest of the normal reco stuff. My valves were fine, the bloke reckoned that Cooper S valves are pretty good and don't often need replacing and he used to steal them for MG Midgets about a decade ago (shame!).

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Hey floss,
If it helps, i live in Morwell which is only 10 minutes away from Moe and i get my engine work done at a place in Morwell, not sure the name but i'm pretty satisfied with the end result of everything.
If your interested i can find out the name of the place for you.

Cheers
Sav

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73 Clubman - Working Progress

HEy everyone,
Thanks for your input.

SAV - If you could let me know the name it would be really good.

D

hey all.
So I have got head back from minitopia. It is skimmed, new springs and new seals.
I have cleaned up the bores and have popped it back on gently with a new gasket.

I have a question.

I took the rockers off and have not changed anything. do you think I will need to get these set up again or will the old adjustments be the same as all will be setup as before.

Cheers

D

Yes you will need to adjust them all. Even if the valves were untouched and the pushrods are back in the same holes, a few thou difference in head gasket thickness will throw them all out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

and also Skimmed

Please release the udjuster off a little, This way the push rods dont jam while tourqe the head up

Start again

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

ok will do tomorrow. will get the manual out and have a look see. Any tips for the uninitiated?

Cheers
D

Use the `rule of 9'
Turn engine over until (say) #1 rocker is at full lift, adjust #8.
Turn until next one (say #3) is at full lift, adjust #6.
ie they add up to 9.

Get it?

Another way to visualize this, imagine a line drawn down the middle of the car and engine, work each side of the centreline of the motor.

Reason for using this method- the valve you are adjusting this way has the cam follower diametrically opposite its cam lobe apex.


In practice Graham Russell, myself and others use a modified method- you will find that 2 valves are near full open at once, so get them both near full lift and adjust their corresponding ones together. Then you just need to turn the motor 4 times.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It