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| Baulk Rings https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53426 |
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| Author: | craig goss [ Wed May 20, 2009 4:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Baulk Rings |
Hey guys, Im rebuilding my gearbox at the moment, and have no spare baulk rings. The old ones i took out the gearbox are knackered. I dont really want to spend $160 on a set when they are 5 pound in the uk. Does anyone have any surgestions? or even a supplier in aust? Has there been ungraded rings made? using a harder compound steel? Cheers |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed May 20, 2009 5:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The common ones are sintered steel, have been for quite a while now. The best are genuine Rover ones, if you can get em. The aftermarket ones vary in quality, if buying local I'd check they are a good fit on a gear and don't rock about. Minispares do have a competition one (steel, not the old bronze ones from years ago) but I've not used these. |
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| Author: | 850man [ Wed May 20, 2009 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Try and get some good S/H ones and make sure they have plenty of back clearence. New ones wear and loose the clearence quickly, causing the synco to fail. If you must use new ones then the genuine Rover rings are still available (22G2033)Competition balk rings seem to break (too hard) and a number of the aftermarket balk rings are made of crap steel. If you can find some NOS Morris 1500 balk rings you can grind the extra tags off and use them in your mini gearbox, they work well as they are proper BMC made balk rings. Early 3 syncro gearbox had balk rings with "Bow ties" cast into them, my experence is they are the best ones to use, if you can find them. I use them in our race car gearboxes and they work very well. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed May 20, 2009 7:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you find some good old (preferably 3 synchro) ones you can surface grind .020" off the back to increase the clearance. |
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| Author: | david rosenthal [ Wed May 20, 2009 8:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Craig, I have all those spare 3 syncro boxes sitting around. I can strip some down and find some good rings surely. Hell there is 8 of them. |
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| Author: | craig goss [ Wed May 20, 2009 11:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just had a look at the 20 baulk rings that have been collected over a few years. None have given me anything close to the 0.75 mm clearance. I had 4 3synrcho baulk rings and none where good enough. I also used different hubs but i thinks its time to clean out some old unusable parts. Just a quick question what is the different between a cooper s box and the normal 4 synchro box- beside the diff gearing. Cheers |
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| Author: | Mick [ Wed May 20, 2009 11:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
craig goss wrote: Just a quick question what is the different between a cooper s box and the normal 4 synchro box- beside the diff gearing. Cheers The laygear is a different part, as well as the 1st motion gear. Output shafts have the hardy spicers as well (for all but the earliest Cooper S boxes), so the diff output shaft suits the hardy spicer drive. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu May 21, 2009 8:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Mick wrote: craig goss wrote: Just a quick question what is the different between a cooper s box and the normal 4 synchro box- beside the diff gearing. Cheers The laygear is a different part, as well as the 1st motion gear. Output shafts have the hardy spicers as well (for all but the earliest Cooper S boxes), so the diff output shaft suits the hardy spicer drive. The S laygear is 22G1040, and the S 1st motion shaft has 18T not 17T. The biggest gear on the laygear has the same number of teeth as the common 4 synchro one, but is about .050" smaller diameter to mesh with the 18T 1st motion shaft. So compared to a Mini K or rodchange box, 1-2-3 are higher geared, but 4th is the same 1:1. |
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