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| Hydro suspension - questions.... https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54530 |
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| Author: | -=MiniMafia=- [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Hydro suspension - questions.... |
Hi all Starting from scratch, what is the best way to improve the handling of a hydro based mini. (eg for track use, not road use) thanks |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:40 pm ] |
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Rear Competition bump stops, check your helper springs. Front shock absorbers, check all the rubber stops at the front and trailing arms and bottom arms, a full wheel measurement including geometry check of the back and front which will give you an idea of how much adjustment the back will need for toe in and camber settings. Full front adjustable suspension at the front and set to desired camber castor toe settings. Do get the hydro pumped to correct/desired running height before doing all the measurements. I'd also do it with all the right running gear on such as the racing setup tyres and wheels. (don't do it on some old steelies then change them to the racing hoosiers, cause it will change!) |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The first thing to do is to take all the hydro out & fit adjustable dry 
seriously tho, if you`re really keen then you can fit restrictors in the line/hose joiners at the front,,,, fit a good pair of koni shocks,,,, use thick hydro fluid,,, fit competition bump stops,,, have fun |
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| Author: | AEG163job [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:18 pm ] |
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TheMiniMan wrote: ,,, use thick hydro fluid,,,
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just think about how it all works. The hydro displacer has a rubber spring and damping valves. The interconnection is only there to improve the ride. After all these years the damping valves have probably turned to grit and the rubber springs have sagged. Adding competition bump stops is basically increasing the spring rate. Adding external shocks is making up for the lack of damping in the units. Fluid does not compress, so thicker fluid will not help the spring rate but it will help the damping if there is any valves left in the bags. |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 5:57 pm ] |
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I have heard of people trying adjustable damping (i.e. a needle valve in the line between the front & rear bags) but they found it worked best for track with the valves closed. |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
awdmoke wrote: I have heard of people trying adjustable damping (i.e. a needle valve in the line between the front & rear bags) but they found it worked best for track with the valves closed.
That will not help the damping, the damper is inside the unit. It will improve the car on the track as it controls the dive and squat. |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
TheMiniMan wrote: The first thing to do is to take all the hydro out & fit adjustable dry
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| Author: | Mick [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
TheMiniMan wrote: seriously tho, if you`re really keen then you can fit restrictors in the line/hose joiners at the front.......
I would like to know more about this mod, I figure it's easy enough to make caps to sit inside the hose ends where they attach to the steel lines, but what size of hole would the restrictor need to make this of any use? |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:28 pm ] |
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Mick wrote: TheMiniMan wrote: seriously tho, if you`re really keen then you can fit restrictors in the line/hose joiners at the front....... I would like to know more about this mod, I figure it's easy enough to make caps to sit inside the hose ends where they attach to the steel lines, but what size of hole would the restrictor need to make this of any use? The Morris 1100 has these from the factory. The hole is about 3 or 4mm. |
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| Author: | mini_mad_matt [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:07 pm ] |
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Anyone ever heard of someone changing the piping so instead of left hand and right hand, diagonal? |
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| Author: | sgc [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:13 pm ] |
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mini_mad_matt wrote: Anyone ever heard of someone changing the piping so instead of left hand and right hand, diagonal?
If you did that, the thing would roll onto the bump stops on the outside through every corner, and would still dive and squat with acceleration and braking. Connecting the front and rear on the same side means that during lateral acceleration (i.e. cornering) the suspension cannot compress. If you cross them, compression of the outside front wheel will cause deflection of the inside rear, which will exacerbate roll. Not a good idea. |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:15 pm ] |
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mini_mad_matt wrote: Anyone ever heard of someone changing the piping so instead of left hand and right hand, diagonal?
Yes 
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
They don't need the pipes to work. The interconnection is there to improve the ride. The displacers will work as stand alone units. But if you are going to do that you may as well run rubber cones and shocks. |
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
TheMiniMan wrote: TheMiniMan wrote: The first thing to do is to take all the hydro out & fit adjustable dry
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