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Sealing cooling pipe from head
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57339		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Jas0n [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Sealing cooling pipe from head
About to insert new cooling pipe - what sealing compound should i use on the thread?

The pipe will be painted with head in engine enamel eventually.

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By Jas0n
Author:  Mick [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
A turn or two of Teflon thread tape would be more than enough, or a little stag. But if they're in good condition( head and bypass threads) then you won't have a problem.
Author:  winabbey [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
What is the current view on removing the by-pass hose altogether?

When I rallied a Cooper S back in the 1970's the holes in the head and water pump were plugged. This was done because, when the by-pass hose failed it was very difficult to replace in the field. Removal didn't seem to affect the cooling and eliminated another source of problem in the A series engine.
Author:  Wombat [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
I just used Gasket Goo - anything that will withstand a little bit of heat and form a seal .
Author:  sgc [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 1:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
winabbey wrote:
What is the current view on removing the by-pass hose altogether?


In a race car you're likely to remove the thermostat and fit a thermostat blanking sleeve as well, so the bypass hose really does nothing anyway and plugging it just removes one point of failure.

On a car with a thermostat however, the bypass allows water to circulate around the water jacket while the thermostat is closed. Plugging it in this case prevents that, but it also causes the water pump to cavitate which erodes the impeller more quickly than otherwise.

If you can live with the need to replace the water pump more frequently, plugging the bypass hose with a thermostat in place shouldn't really cause any other problems.
Author:  simon k [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
been doing it on my road cars for years, never had any trouble

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Author:  winabbey [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
simon k wrote:
been doing it on my road cars for years, never had any trouble

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... except for all that puss and blood that gushes out (I'm assuming that yellow stuff is puss and the red stuff blood?).

Poor car, it's in pain!
Author:  poeee [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
A+ didn't have them, so I can't see why plugging would be a problem.
Author:  minimanic [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've used Ultra-blue on the threads to seal them many times - never had a leak.
Also had success pluging the holes off, just drilled a 1/4" hole in the thermostat to provide bypass when the thermostat is closed.
A+ cooling systems were plumbed up differently I belive, so that while these is no "bypass hose", there is still circulation with the thermostat closed :roll:
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
poeee wrote:
A+ didn't have them, so I can't see why plugging would be a problem.

A+ had a sandwich plate under the thermostat, with a bypass in it.
If you are going to plug up an A series head, drill a couple of 3mm holes in the thermostat body.
Otherwise, until the thermostat opens, you have NO water circulation in the block, or the head either. :roll: Unless you happen to have a Minimatic heater, or your heater tap turned on... :wink:
Author:  Super-mini [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
If you are going to plug up an A series head, drill a couple of 3mm holes in the thermostat body.


yeah thats how mine is setup
Author:  winabbey [ Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Regarding my earlier post about rallying with the bypass blocked, I remember now that I had a Special Tuning blanking sleeve (C-AJJ 4012), and the heater was on continuously (mainly because the Victorian bush and alps can be very cold in the wee hours of Sunday morning, particularly around Omeo and Hotham where the Alpine Rally was held).
Author:  TheMiniMan [ Fri Sep 25, 2009 2:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
We always block them off & fit a hose from the heater outlet on the back of the head & take that to the top tank of the rad,,, yeah it takes a few more mins to warm up (barely any difference) , but the benefits of more equal heat distribution across the length of the head & also much better cooling solution for those very hot days stuck in traffic, makes it all more worth while than just about any other cooling mod in a mini.

like Doc said you can take it through your heater if you like ...but i "Never"--->Repeat "NEVER" ever take it back to the bottom hose... total waste of time pushing hot water back into the hot engine in my books....

& before anyone jumps on me attempting to suggest that it gets cooled through the heater,,, ---> yeah """A BIT""" ---> it doesn`t get very cooled at all, try a Pyrometer (infra red temp sensor thing-a-me-bob) on your heater return hose when you`re stuck in traffic on a 33deg heat day & remember that all that hot water that "Isn`t" getting very cooled from the heater is going back into your bottom hose & straight back into an allready hot donk,,, Nice hey??? (NOT)

a small fitting (piece of copper pipe) soldered into the top tank of your rad costs almost nothing to do while you have your rad out getting squewered/cleaned/re-cored & is worth it`s 100 times it`s weight in gold for doing it.

& i always run a thermostat,,, i believe that the only reason that people took them out & made a blanking sleave was originally to save having the thermostat give trouble sticking shut, or sticking open while racing,,, Nothing to do with creating a constant temp (originally)

however people seemed to have decided (these days) to believe that it`s a more of a constant temp thing & not the reliabiltiy while racing thing

ok,,, i`m done :-) class dismissed for the day, it`s beer-o-clock :-)
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