Have just installed the same kit as outlined by Mick in the "How to" section.

Put distributor back together and wired to coil.
Try to start car and doesn't fire.

Check voltage to + on coil and it reads 12.55 volts. The - on coil with test light and it lights, but when starter activated stays off (doesn't flash)

Took plugs out and tried while on starter and no spark.

Double checked gap in dizzy from the round bit on the shaft and the red sensor and it is less than 0.5mm.

Checked some paperwork on another kit on the Monaro and it says to next try replacing the coil in case it has failed.

Any other ideas?????
BTW - Distributor is a Luas 25D and the car is currently negative earth.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Sounds like a dud sensor to me.
But double check you still have 12V at the + terminal while cranking.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And I am guessing that if there is not 12V when cranking then the sensor is crap?

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

No, if there is not 12V there, look elsewhere. Ign switch, fuses, etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So I need to double check fuses are OK and that there is 12V at the ignition switch? Engine turns over starter OK.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Test it at the coil, not the switch. The feed goes from the switch first to the fuse, then to the coil.
Do it with starter cranking. The switch contact to fuse/coil is sometimes crook whilst cranking, if the switch is a bit worn.
Could also be a loose fuse contact.

[edit] I would add that with some of these sensors (eg Pertronix 1) they will burn out if you leave the ignition on (engine off) for a few minutes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Managed to download a help file from simonbbc.com.

Running through the checklist and there are some major differences in regard to the coil. I am using a SU12 - the standard type that was working with points.

The helpfile says that the coil should have a primary resistance of 1.5 ohms minimum by measuring between the '+' and the '-' with no other wires connected using a multimeter in the 20K ohm range.

My coil measures 0.01.

It goes onto say that the secondary resistance when measuring from the '+' to the centre high tension terminal should be a minimum of 7,000 ohms.

My coil measures 14.66.

Thinking that the coil must be now suspect I measured another similar coil and got the same (similar) results.

So are both coils dead or do I actually need and 'R' resistor coil or something completely different (instructions say I can use the existing coil . . .)?

Very confused now

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Dave what scale is your meter set on, it should be on the lowest scale (200 ohm on mine) to read realistically..

a 12V coil like your Bosch SU12 should measure 3 ohm primary, give or take a bit.
A `use with resistor' coil (eg GT40R) is usually 1.5 ohm approx.

There are also special coils for some cars with electronic ignition, these measure 1 ohm or less. Do NOT use these...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sorry read the help file wrong!

Measured primary at 200 ohm setting and it reads 3.3.

Change multimeter to 20K ohms and measure secondary and it is 14.66 - so does that mean 14.66 ohms or 14,660 ohms?

The flyer suggests a Bosch HS15HEC, however I cannot find any info or anybody that sells them here.

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

14,600.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well thats good then! I guess coil is OK.

Have cranked engine over with one spark plug out and there is no spark. Just reading the 'Tahg' episode from April this year and Mick said to remove the centre high tension lead and crank over to check spark?

Helpfile says that the timing will be out 20-30 degrees so would this cause a lack of spark? (haven't adjust dizzy position yet).

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Dave K.
1979 Moke Californian + 1981 'Coke' Moke

Nope it should still spark.
pull the coil lead out, then put a plug lead in the COIL with a plug in it, earth the plug..
crank it and it should spark.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I love these electronic ignition systems (as long as they work)-
here's a 43D with a Britparts kit I did today. Took me about 3 minutes total, and NO MORE POINTS!
<edit> it works too.


It's going in the 1412 stroker motor.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.