So I'm planning on getting a 1275 rebuilt, which i don't have yet. I have been offered a head and bare block (not reconditioned, but the head has been crack tested) at a base price and then anything else i want is extra.

So what things would a re-builder want to have?
Crankshaft
Camshaft
Rods - wouldn't need the 1275 pistons if reboring?
Timing gear
Rockers

All else i can think of is seals and bearing which i reckon would be replaced?

Add or subtract to the list/

Cheers Pat.

you will need the pushrods as well. i think they're different to the small bore ones.

how much does the seller want for the camshaft you can buy new decent ones for around the $100-$150 mark and there's plenty of different grinds to choose from.

dont need pistons.

_________________
1975 Leyland Mini: 1060cc - resto/ ex-hsc project.

Its sounding a bit dodgy, could be ripped off so tread carefully, theres a lot of extra little bits and pieces to get.

If you can get a haynes manual and go through the engine section and write down everything you need, like caps and bearings and washers and what not.

And have you got a good enough gearbox lined up? And the flywheel?
Theres a lot of things to get so be thorough.

_________________
Simplify and add lightness

Make sure the block has matching main bearing caps. God only knows why or how these get seperated, but there have been a number of blocks for sale without main bearing caps. Yes, you can have new ones made and line bored but will cost considerable $$.

Yes, as leighton says, the push rods are longer. There's also all the other anciliary items you'll need;-

Front engine plate,
Timing Chain cover,
Oil Filter head and pipe work,
All the fasteners (don't take this lightly, unless you have a 'treasure chest'),
Distributor Drive and collar,
Oil pressure relief valve cap,
Top Radiator Bracket (these are different to small bore),
Depending on the gearbox you will be running, the 'front' engine steady,
Primary Gear (yes these too are different to small bore and can be quite expensive),
Harmonic Damper,
Rear Alternator Bracket,
Rocker Cover,
Possibly the spyder for the Oil Pump (the doc has a conversion adaptor)
Thermostat housing to suit your radiator,
Distributor.

(I have tried to confine this list to a 'long' engine)

Depending on if you have a 'donor' engine, small or big bore, some of these items could be ratted from that.

I'd suggest buying new Big End Bolts & Nuts, Mains Bolts, Head Studs & Nuts, new Flywheel Bolt, new cam followers (although this should be done as part of the reco process), pistons, bearings (including cam and cam thrust plate), water pump.

Make sure the rods are the correct ones to suit the crank. There were Large and Small Jounal Big End Cranks. The small jounal are far less popular (mostly Cooper S) and same for the rods, but it could pay to check.

This poject will cost some considerable $$ so be prepared for that.

You can pick up a - more or less - complete, 1275 engine (block, rods, head, crank, primary gear, assembly 'out of car') for $250 to $500, so put that in to perspective of what you are considering.

<EDIT> You could also be up for Valves and valve springs.

As mentioned here, be careful if your buying "separate" parts of an engine. It may end up costing you more in the long run as those small sundry parts like nuts and bolts will just add up. You are better to buy a whole complete engine to rebuild.

PS. Does the bare block come with crank caps? without caps it's practically useless

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If you already have an old smallbore lying about many of the nuts, bolts and other bits will fit a 1275. Rockers fit and work OK, just put a flat washer next to the exhaust ones to suit 1275 valve spacing.

A 998/1098 primary gear can be hard turned (or ground) to take a 1275 floating front bush.
There are still some bargains about for the rest if you have time to fossick and aren't after a 1275 in one piece.
A crank here, rods there, a set of pushrods.. a 1275 head etc.
As said, make sure any block has the (matched) main caps on it.

A smallbore cam (reground to a sporty profile) will fit a 1275 if you are just building a fast road motor.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Pat, whatever you do, don't take it to Graham Russell.
He's gotta finish my engine before he gets to anyone elses!!!

^^Haha, well that's who I'll probably take it to for any grinding. But don't worry it wont be for a little while.

I do have a old 850 which i can use for some parts if they fit. I'm only looking to get a fast road engine built up anyway. At least i know the mains things to look out for.

Cheers Pat.

You better ring him then....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are pushrods all the same ? is there a dif in length to small bore?
and what else is exclusive to 1275 i know the obvious crank, rods
head and block, but are then most ancileries/bolt ons going to fit/work.How about the clutch housing?

Primary gear is different and expensive if you don't have one.

_________________
68 Mini
70 Moke

upper radiator bracket.

top rad hose

rockers

double row timing gear & chain set (recomended)

Passengers side engine steady bar bracket assembly (2x brakets are different) & highly recomended fitting

amongst the other items allready mentioned

& yes the push rods are longer than small bore ones

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

re rockers, the 1275 head had either oval pad pressed steel, Cooper S forged, or A+ type sintered ones.
The round pad smallbore pressed steel ones will work too, IF you put a flat washer next to the exhaust ones to space them out.

In order of valve lift (worst to best):
Cooper S forged
sintered
round pad pressed steel
oval pad pressed steel.

S forged rockers are strongest, but do NOT have good lift.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

about how expensive?

They range in price from $69.64 to $156.60 depending on the type. I just got those prices off of minispares.com so you would still have to factor in a fair bit of postage to get these over here to aus.

That's probably one of the cheaper prices for these you'll find. You might want to check out local places as well because you won't have to pay as much freight.

_________________
"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina