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Semi-drydeck?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63679		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Asphalt [ Sat Jun 12, 2010 6:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Semi-drydeck?
Hi!

One thing I can't get out of my head...

Assuming, the coolant in the engine behaves like any liquid and always goes the easiest/direct passage way. This would mean that n°1 gets the best colling (resp. flow of coolant), and n°4 the worst.

Wouldn't it be beneficial for equal cooling to block the holes closest to the pump? To force more water to go the long way and help cooling of n°4. Might enlarge the remaining holes a bit.

So basicaly the same idea as the 'forced crossflow' drydeck conversions, but internally and 'softer'.

Good, bad or stupid idea? :) The only problem I can see is too little flow-rate due to too much obstruction which might lead to problems (more cavitation on the pump!?)?

Cheers,
Jan
Author:  mickmini [ Sat Jun 12, 2010 11:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you are going to do this, you are already blocking some of the head holes, so you may as well do them all and fully dry deck it IMHO.

Always better to ensure that all the rest of the cooling system is up to scratch before resorting to this.

cheers
michael

ps looking forward to the game tomorrow :D
Author:  kirby [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 12:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Its the same with all engines really, The nissan ca18de engine had trouble with the 4th cylinder overheating, they fixed this by blocking off some cooling jacket holes with a new head gasket.

However with the mini, as far as I know it doesn't have any cooling issues (touchwood). What with a cast head it can absorb a bit more than alloy ones, and if you are having any cooling issues a bigger pump, better rad, thermo fan etc would be much more beneficial.

If you are chasing every half HP by all means do it, but it would be a lot of trial and error and diminishing returns.
Author:  Asphalt [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Of course this would be no single measure - but I'm thinking about monitorng the temperatures a bit more. The std. sensor is pretty useless for detecting which cylinder runs cool or hot.

I think I'm blocking at least the two holes closest to the pump, on the block's front :)

mickmini wrote:
looking forward to the game tomorrow :D


I SOO hope Oz wins! Would certainly help keep the neighbours quiet... :evil: :lol:

Cheers,
Jan
Author:  VulcanBB18 [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey Jan

By using the heater take-off near number 4 and plumbing that into the top radiator hose or top tank you can equalise the temp over the cylinders a fair bit.

If you plumb a heater matrix in-line with that as well you get awesome cooling! 8)

cheers

Jacob
Author:  Asphalt [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
VulcanBB18 wrote:
Hey Jan

By using the heater take-off near number 4 and plumbing that into the top radiator hose or top tank you can equalise the temp over the cylinders a fair bit.

If you plumb a heater matrix in-line with that as well you get awesome cooling! 8)

cheers

Jacob


Hi Jacob!

That's what Rover did with the RSP Coopers! Well, almost. The hose goes from the heater take-off point - through the intake manifold - back to the large bottom hose.

Heater take-off is on a spacer plate under the thermostate and goes back into the bottom hose too.

http://www.mini-mayfair.net/daten/kuehl1.jpg
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
I do know of some engines that have various size restrictors in the outlets to get the flow speeds correct.
Maybe a plug may be too much and a small hole up the middle of the plug to enable trapped air to get through.
Author:  KLAS [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
i don't see any reason to play with the factory waterways.
in fact i have seen more dry-decked engines with big problems than anyone would believe. generally i say "dry-decking is the solution, all we need now is the matching problem".
i don't think sending more water to the end of the block, picking up more heat from each cylinder, and sending it back through the whole head, picking up even more heat, would be of any help. best to let the hotter water rise at the cylinder it picked up the heat and carry it away, i think.
the newer 12G940 head already have some brass restrictors fitted (don't have older ones to compare), i would say the factory was aware of flow speed and distribution.
and a small note: got an overheated head some time ago to rebuild. 2 of the unleaded valve seats came loose. guess what cylinders? right, #2 and #3. :wink:
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