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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:17 am 
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1098cc
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Location: Yarraville, Melbourne
So I was inspired by some of Hanra's posts and pics on the Stainless Steel cover for the centre hole in the firewall he made so I bodged something up myself.

Down to Clark rubber for an offcut of foam, call into Bunnings on the way back to pick up a small piece of stainless steeel a bit of cutting and measuring and it fits.

Now when I put the weber back in it actually fits but if I want to put the filter back on it doesn't clear. :?

Can you rotate the engine forward using an adjustable engine steady (just like the turbo guys do to make more room for the turbo) or will this upset the weber, i.e. do they need to be perfectly level?

Thanks.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:29 am 
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1360cc
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
They need to be level to a certain degree. All carbs work on float bowls with fuel. If this is not level you can use your imagination as to what the consequences will be.

You can do a few things: kick the intake manifold on the head and weber mounts up a few degrees (something like 15 deg max from memory). this will be easier than tilting engine forward as then you have gearbox clearance issues.

Do what I did, make a weber box and prosper 8)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 12:28 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
A remote gear change box will make the rolling a difficult proposition. Is it for your 1970?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 1:30 pm 
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1098cc
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Yes, but it's a 1275 A+ motor 8) rod change all the way and compulsory associated oil leaks :x

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:00 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Yarraville, Melbourne
Thanks Lillee, might try that and rotating the engine a bit to get the clearance i need. When I get home, I'll try and measure how much I need.

Can anyone recommend a particular adjustable engine steady? I currently have the standard fixed length one at the top above the flywheel and one at the bottom that goes from the gearbox to the subframe.

I'd prefer an adjustable one with bushes, the KAD ones look a bit too harsh for my liking. So far I've only really seen the dsnclassic ones to replace the existing top engine steady.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:23 pm 
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1360cc
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The DSN Classic top engine steady is a nice bit of kit, and easy to fit.
You can also crank it forward to suit your needs.

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 Post subject: steady
PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:23 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Bentleigh
Hiya,

Rover engine steadies are 10mm longer, I seem to remember reading on the moke forum.

Might help!

cheers! jon


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 2:55 pm 
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1098cc
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Thanks for that one, I'm sure I read somewhere that Rover engines were moved further forward to allow more room for all the fuel injection gear (Not sure how they achieved this though).

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:07 pm 
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1098cc
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Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:57 pm
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Location: queensland
I dont understand why it didnt fit. Did you put the stainless infront or behind the hole. I have done it before and fitted the stainless behind the hold btw the firewall and guages. You can move the whole engine forward 5mm, seen it done before allowing fitment of 1.5inch ram tubes. Took a while to figure out what he had done. Saw the subframe holes had been welded and redrilled , Had a spacer behind rear shifter mount where it mounted onto the remote housing.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 7:24 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne - S.E. Subs
Don't know how useful this is, but this is my Weber-equipped engine room.

Image

As it's my first Mini & I've only had it a week, I can't tell you if the engine has been rotated to make it fit or not, but hopefully some eagle-eyed observer will be able to work it out.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 9:13 pm 
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This space for rent
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The Duckmeister wrote:
I can't tell you if the engine has been rotated to make it fit or not, but hopefully some eagle-eyed observer will be able to work it out.


Doesn't look like it from that pic, those look like bog-standard top engine steadies to these eyes...

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:04 pm 
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sgc wrote:

Doesn't look like it from that pic, those look like bog-standard top engine steadies to these eyes...


Not quite with blue bushes, but I take your point :D

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:06 pm 
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998cc
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How far did you want to go?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:08 pm 
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1310/71 wrote:
Not quite with blue bushes, but I take your point :D


Pffft :P :lol:

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The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:49 pm 
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Rookiepilot wrote:
How far did you want to go?

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wouldn't that upset the oil and water flow through the engine? i know that Valiant had trouble with it when they designed the slant six.

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