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123 distributor into A+ ENGINE https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70638 |
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Author: | minifreak1 [ Wed May 11, 2011 1:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | 123 distributor into A+ ENGINE |
Hi all just about to try and buy a 123 distributor but I need to check some things befour I fork, out the hard earned cash.. this dizzy is for a A+ engine 1293cc metro block So far my main concern is the only ones I can find are the ones that run the option of vacum advance... As i run a webber this isnt required ive been told but the only ones I can find for sale that are cheaper than here in aus have vacum... does anyone know if i can still run it even though the vacum advance feture wont be hooked up or do i still have to block of the hole like in a standard A+ dizzy if I dont run advance ??? I found a guy in melbourne that sells them but he only has one and it has vacum on it and he said i can use it anyway... I will most likely buy from america as its like 100 cheaper from there posted the prices are all over the place... usa price posted $410.57 minisport.com.au $575 mini world australia is $ 550 any help would be good... thanks all from Brien |
Author: | GT mowog [ Wed May 11, 2011 3:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I haven't looked at them in a while, but they where available without vac advance if that was the way you wanted to go. If you do buy one with a vac advance, it will work OK without the vac connected, but you might want to lock the back plate in the dissy to stop it rattling around (if that is the way the vac advance works in them). For the money though, there are better options than a 123 dissy. IMO the curves are not the optimal for an A series engine. |
Author: | Flute [ Wed May 11, 2011 5:01 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I have one, you just stick a plastic cap on the vac intake tube ( like the little cap off the end of a coat hangar) to keep gunk out and away you go. I would take a pic for you but my car is buried in the garage while we build a new house. I had one without the vac advance inlet first but the cap was the wrong way around so swapped it. I got it from the guy in Hawthorn (Melbourne) and he is very helpful. It may cost a bit more but at least you can send it back to him if there is a problem. |
Author: | simon k [ Wed May 11, 2011 5:29 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
GT mowog wrote: but you might want to lock the back plate in the dissy to stop it rattling around (if that is the way the vac advance works in them).
no plate in them, it's a vacuum sensor, so capping it off is the norm |
Author: | minifreak1 [ Wed May 11, 2011 5:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
thanks for the replys guys... the guy in hawthorn i have spoken to befour and was very helpfull.. but cant seem to find his details again.. he was the one who said he had one only and it had vac also. I just cant get over the price difference..like $100 is a lot of money when your building a car and seeing as ive been building it since 2005..lol every penny has to count as most of my hard earned money these days goes towards my kids and bills... If your advice is correct and it will work ill most likely go towards the one from the usa...and the left over $100 can go straight towards something else the car needs and it needs plenty.. would also like to know more on the comment regarding the curves ???? quote... For the money though, there are better options than a 123 dissy. IMO the curves are not the optimal for an A series engine. please do tell me more as even though ive built two minis and too date this is my first complete build and so far have had no out side help apart from forums like this one to get advice...I had the empession that this dizzy had been built with the mini in mind.. I have had lots of confussion regarding the distributor also... when the engine was built and its a 1275 metro block witch is now 1293cc mild cam and everything else most semi hoted up engines have it did have a electronic dizzy off my old engine but the engine builders didnt use it?? something about not being suited for the engine... but i was told that most 1275cc A+ dizzys will work electronic or not??? I was looking at one of ebay from the uk..ended up being 140 posted and it was from a 1275 mg metro engine so it would suit but it had vac also but was told just to block off the pipe..and advance the dizzy 7 deg and all would be ok... suggest something else if there is anything out there as when it comes to distributors my no how is minimal..lol thanks again..all yourt help and advice is much aprecated from Brien... |
Author: | sgc [ Wed May 11, 2011 8:52 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I have a 123 and I love it, but my next dizzy will be a Megajolt ![]() |
Author: | EST-071 [ Wed May 11, 2011 9:17 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Minispares uk have them for about A$390 posted. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... itle=&au=1 Cheers Pete |
Author: | junior [ Thu May 12, 2011 8:48 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I can see the attraction of the 123 dizzy, however if you are like me & on a budget & want an electronic dizzy I bought one through Simon’s Best British Classics in the UK, $112 delivered http://www.simonbbc.com/ |
Author: | simon k [ Thu May 12, 2011 10:20 am ] |
Post subject: | |
minifreak1, if I was you, I'd put the standard A+ dizzy back in until the rest of the car is built. I'd get it going and run in with the standard dizzy, then later on you'll know more about it and can upgrade from there. There are a huge number of cars getting around with much hotter engines than yours that are running very well with a standard points distributor. sgc wrote: I have a 123 and I love it, but my next dizzy will be a Megajolt
![]() you mean your next dizzy will be a welsh plug?? ![]() |
Author: | minifreak1 [ Thu May 12, 2011 3:18 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks again for the replys guys.. The reason Im after a 123 is its an upgrade on the standard item witch ive had b4 This motor dosent need running in...it was built in 2000 but since 2005 its sat still due to car being rebuilt When I started the rebuild I told myself if there was a better part out there idd get it instead of the standard part new rather than old etc....and the motor never ran that good with the standard distributor iether....it was allways playing up and getting something done to it ill update on my choice soon |
Author: | smac [ Thu May 12, 2011 5:19 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
simon k wrote: you mean your next dizzy will be a welsh plug??
e.g. Leeks taste just fantastic!!! ![]() |
Author: | slide [ Thu May 12, 2011 6:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I like the Performance Ignition Scorchers. Made in Melbourne using Bosch parts. You can specify the curve you want or they can build one based on your engine spec, with or without vac advance. I've got them in both Minis and both Rovers V8s - fit and forget. |
Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu May 12, 2011 6:53 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Just get your one modified about $80 from GR (check with him re the price) The metro dizzy are quite good, already electonic Curve is wrong, but easily fixed Cheers Bernard |
Author: | wobbles_55 [ Thu May 12, 2011 9:22 pm ] |
Post subject: | 123 |
So what is the optimal curve that is required for the A & A+ series engine? In performance engines, Race engines and STD road going engines? I have been using a 123 for some time now, and have a high regard for them. |
Author: | kiwiinwgtn [ Thu May 12, 2011 9:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Each curve would be unque to the engine spec of the engine, Thats why you need to go the the pro's Give them your engine spec or run your motor up on a dyno An A series engine head design limits the max advance you can run etc. there is a good write up on the requirements in the Book "How to build and Power Tune Distributer type systems by Des Hammill The curve on the standard metro is wrong for a modified engine and works well once corrected and is a cheaper option to get the result you chasing. I also have great regard for the 123 dizzy gives the punter on the street easy access to different curves. The ultimate would be programable igntion but thats a whole different topic Kiwiinwgtn |
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