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| Rear Hi Lo's Won't Go In (Have done search OK) https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7249 |
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| Author: | minstar [ Mon May 16, 2005 3:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rear Hi Lo's Won't Go In (Have done search OK) |
Just finished assembling rear subframe, put Hi Lo's partially together put rod and knuckle into cup of radius arm (with radius arm moved as far forward as possible). Put adjusta bit into cone and put cone in subframe. They don't even look close to coming together. What am I doing wrong. I have everthing wound in completely. HELP  
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon May 16, 2005 4:48 pm ] |
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If it's like assembling the std trumpet, you put the cone in the subframe, assemble the trumpet with the ball and cup and boot, fit that into the rubber cone, then slip the cup and attached parts into the arm and pull the arm up, then slip shock on to keep it there.  Make sure the cup is a nice slide in fit to the arm, before you try assembling all this lot..
Try and get it all into the arm without the boot coming off the lip of the cup. Yes it is possible by juggling the arm position. 
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| Author: | TheMiniMan [ Tue May 17, 2005 9:53 am ] |
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quite often,,,depending on the brand/type of Hi-Lo, you might need to shorten the hi-lo,,, or the rod to make it all fit,,,quite often if this isn`t done, you may not be able to lower the suspension once it`s all in place that`s just quite often tho not all the time 
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| Author: | jill200sx [ Tue May 17, 2005 3:41 pm ] |
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do you mean you cant get them in (tight squeeze), or that they dont come together (ie huge gap) thats what it was for mine. Its extremely loose when reassembling all the bits, you might have to adjust the HiLo out to its longest setting to get the bits to stay in place while its up on jacks. After you take it off the jacks its all held together. My concern was if its set to lowest setting (wound right in) the suspension can fall out if you get a wheel airborn. Ive wound mine up (out) a tad since, and will possibly raise the ride height a tad more to make it higher than the front. |
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| Author: | minstar [ Tue May 17, 2005 10:39 pm ] |
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Actually Jill that's the problem I have the exact opposite situation. Basically with the knuckle joint in the tube (and pushed into the radius arm fully) and the trumpet wound all the way back in they overlap by probably an inch and inch a half. I will try and take a photo to illustrate. But that is basically the prob. I am a bit worried about taking the hacksaw to the two tubes as I don't want the opposite effect where once they're in the whole rear sags. Do you all think this is what I have to do? That leads to the 64M question how much? |
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| Author: | jill200sx [ Wed May 18, 2005 1:18 am ] |
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aaaaah
well I trimmed off 9mm from each of the extension bars. That effectively lowered the ride height by 37mm so be careful not to trim off too much. 10mm tops Id recommend. Then yes, make sure the knuckle is in its little hole and the cone is seated properly as Im sure youve done, but double check it. Good luck
PS I had no problem getting them back in even without trimming. I trimmed them so it would lower the ride height further. It might be worth taking a pic and posting so the guys can see if there is something wrong
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| Author: | minstar [ Fri May 20, 2005 3:01 pm ] |
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Yeah Jill I think your right about the photo. Because I had another go and the trumpet with everthing wound in or pushed back as far as possible the trumpet back sits almost level with the back of the cone x doesn't go into y. I will put up pic tonight |
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