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1100 can they be good?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=73821		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  KPV [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:35 am ]
Post subject:  1100 can they be good?
The 1100 in the van is now on 3 cylinders :cry:
I am wanting more power from the rebuild.I have looked at the 1275 options and they get expensive quite quickly.
I am on a budget so was thinking may be better to rebuild the 1100.I know this will put restraints on power,rpm etc but im just after a good street engine.
So what budget parts are needed to help the 1100.
And is it really worth it?
Author:  mattsmadmini [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:47 am ]
Post subject: 
I love my 1100 (1152) It pulls hard, sounds dirty and loves the torque.

Hasnt had that much work done to it either.... Lightened flywhell, RE13 cam, and a well tickled head

If i had my choice i would buy a 1275 and probably do the same (cam, head, fly) with the prices you can pick up a full long engine these days it wouldnt be too bad
Author:  74snail [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Absolutely nothing wrong with the 1100 , just take into account the cost of 7.5 disks moving to 1275 and thats about $1400 of parts that could be spent improving the 1100 , its all about the torque and setting it up the to make most of the torque through the rev range , the 12G202 head can be improved nicely but if you can get your hands on a crack free 12G295 even better , cams come in lots of different patterns Wade 104, Waggott 509 , Kent 266 and 276 , electronic ignition is a good idea , a 1 1/2 SU with a No7 needle on a good water heated manifold.

If your motor is holding good compression and regularly serviced then just those improvements with make a difference , lets put a scenario out there for a standard bore 1100

12G295 skimmed by 10thou and decked ,larger exhaust valves,standard inlet, standard rockers double valve springs- Kent 276 with Isky lifters - rebuilt 1 1/2 SU No 7 needle K&N filter on good water heated manifold - Pertronix Flame Thrower electronic ignition and coil - light flywheel - rebuilt clutch - using Premium 98 fuel

straight away you have an engine that breaths better , has better fuel delivery and a good spread of torque and all on a reasonable budget

.
Author:  Minieleven11 [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
What are peoples thoughts on an 1100 with +100thou gr pistons, 12g940 worked head kent 286 cam with belt drive, lightened flywheel and balanced etc. The 940 head i have has been made for a pretty hot 1275 do you think this would be to big for an 1100? I basically have all the bits thats why im asking.
Author:  74snail [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Minieleven11 wrote:
What are peoples thoughts on an 1100 with +100thou gr pistons, 12g295 worked head kent 286 cam with belt drive, lightened flywheel and balanced etc. The 295 head i have has been made for a pretty hot 1275 do you think this would be to big for an 1100? I basically have all the bits thats why im asking.


If the head you have if for a 1275 then its a 12G940 and you have to pocket the block to fit it , you would only go to 100thou pistons if you were moving up from 60 or 80 thou or you had a particular bore and stroke in mind , the Kent 286 is hard work on a road car for general traffic but again if your building an open road tourer thats fine

If your trying to build a big bore 1100 100thou over , 12G940 on a pocketed block, Kent 286 + other mods then you could look at using a Dellorto 40 DHLA or similar , also if you already have a 3:44.1 diff just stick with that

.
Author:  Minieleven11 [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry i got mixed up with the head numbers it is a 12G940. I have a block that has been gouged pretty deep by a gudgen pin so this would be perfect. i would be using a 40 DCOE weber that i have as well. not sure what diff i would use yet as it wont be a road motor more of a race engine.
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
I really think that with an 1100 you might as well go as big as you want with the bore straight away and don't muck around with +.020" +.040" and so on.
If you want to go big to get past a score in the bore all the better!

You can always find another 1100 block if you need to rebuild it later on, every 998 has one! :lol:
Author:  sgc [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nothing wrong with an 1100, especially if you bore it 100 thou, fit GR's flat-tops and bolt on a nicely worked '202 or '295 head. Chuck in a nice cam and a pair of HS2's and you've got a little ripper 8)

(that's almost exactly the spec of the spare 1100 I'm building ... slowly ... at the moment :D )
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Oct 30, 2011 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
For a road Mini, there just ain't no replacement for displacement!
A well bored out 1098 is the next best thing to a 1275 and if you bust one, they are cheaper to replace.
:wink:
Author:  pristic [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 3:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
For a road Mini, there just ain't no replacement for displacement!
A well bored out 1098 is the next best thing to a 1275 and if you bust one, they are cheaper to replace.
:wink:


Except a hair-dryer :-)

1100's rock! You can get an RE83 or RE13, etc 202 head worked well, bored +60max (you dont need more really) if N/A then high compression - very good ignition system and tuned very well... it'll be a pocket rocket.

Pete
Author:  gafmo [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
pristic wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
For a road Mini, there just ain't no replacement for displacement!
A well bored out 1098 is the next best thing to a 1275 and if you bust one, they are cheaper to replace.
:wink:


Except a hair-dryer :-)

1100's rock! You can get an RE83 or RE13, etc 202 head worked well, bored +60max (you dont need more really) if N/A then high compression - very good ignition system and tuned very well... it'll be a pocket rocket.

Pete

have to agree. As per Pristic has mentioned + make sure you get the Crank , Flywheel and clutch assembly all balanced with the rods the same weight and also match the inlet manifold to the head inlets. 45hp at the wheels is easy which is the same as a Cooper stock.
if you Buying, buy a short block 1275 but if you have a 1100, Us it
I'm no lead foot but when I need it i love it
Author:  74snail [ Fri Nov 04, 2011 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
gafmo wrote:
45hp at the wheels is easy which is the same as a Cooper stock.


:) I know an 850 which has 50hp , yes its true, a 63 850 with 50hp ( the details are not that complicated but its still an 850 , its secret is that it is a "square" engine :wink: no supercharger no turbo no witchcraft just engineering )

based on those same engineering principals it would be possible to make a "squarer" 1100 , it would be interesting to try

.
Author:  68Rusty [ Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:53 am ]
Post subject: 
Check out jester's build.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... &start=210

He got 60hp atw and some good torque so more than a standard cooper s.
Graham Russel 100thou pistons and a 12G295 head and your laughing, plus other enhancements as mentioned above even better :wink:

Will let you know one day when I finally get mine on the road!
Author:  pristic [ Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Just for the record, find a copy of TM Mag with the article about Grahams smallbore project motor.
You can make 100hp with same torque from an 1100...

The other benefit (my favourite) if you break it, its cheaper and easier to get 998/1100 parts than 1275 parts ;-)


Pete
Author:  adamstuart [ Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:53 am ]
Post subject: 
Google 'project smallbore minimania'
I'm on my phone so don't have a link, but that's GR's article about how to make an 1100 go like stink.

I like the finishing line with ''I think I made it too powerful''

Definitely worth a read if considering smallbore.
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