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Engine machine shop in Victoria
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=78125		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Nicho [ Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine machine shop in Victoria
Hey guys I'm about to pull the 998 out of the clubby and strip it for a rebuild.
Is there a good engine machinist/balancer near Pakenham in Vic that anyone can suggest.
I know a heap that could do any old Holden/ford etc but they might not be suitable for a mini.

Any suggestions with stroking or head mods to suit twin su's
Do's donts, what to watch out for etc.
This is to be the wife's weekender so it doesn't have to be a rocket but it can't be a standard donk
Author:  coopar [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:22 am ]
Post subject: 
If you want to travel, top torque in nunawading are really good. I just had all my machining done there.
Link uses them
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:16 am ]
Post subject: 
If it's a 998 now and you don't want her to row it up hills with the gearlever, stick a 1098 crank and oversize pistons in it.
A +.060" overbore and 1098 crank = 1152cc, or you can bore even bigger- +.100" = 1188cc approx.
"There ain't no replacement for displacement" (for a roady A series anyway) :wink:
There are so many 998 & 1098 blocks lying about now it's dumb to limit bore size to `save the block' (unless it's a Cooper motor).

And fit a better cam- a stock 998 one has bugger all lift, or duration either.
An MD266 or similar works well in a 1098.
Author:  Nicho [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
If it's a 998 now and you don't want her to row it up hills with the gearlever, stick a 1098 crank and oversize pistons in it.
And fit a better cam- a stock 998 one has bugger all lift, or duration either.
An MD266 or similar works well in a 1098.


ok so where do I find a 1098 crank and do they fit straight in.. Anyone want to sell one PM me.
I have 3 X 998's all complete so i have plenty of spare blocks to play with.

"Head work" how much or how little should i do or should i source a particular head to modify?
I will be port matching the manifolds but thats a given.

Already in possesion of electronic ignition and MkII cooper twin carbs, disc brake front with cooper tin can master cylinder and PBR VH44 booster (not the cheap chinese crap), coil spring conversion with hi/lows, new brake lines both flexible and steel,
Author:  Nicho [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
coopar wrote:
If you want to travel, top torque in nunawading are really good. I just had all my machining done there.
Link uses them


Thanks Tim I'll give them a call for a quote.
Author:  adamstuart [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
As far as I know, you need the 1098 crank and Con rods.

I picked up a 1098 crank for $50 last time I bought one, but you will need to crack test it, which is another $50.

If you have a stocko 998, you probably have a 4004 'smog' head.
This is pretty useless in stock form.

A good head to buy, and bolt on stock would be a 202, or ideally a 295 (hard to find in good condition)

if you want to work on a head, any head can be worked on, but the worse the head, the more work required; More dollars.

Most of the time, people modify a 202 head, to be the same as a 295 head which gives good power.

You won't need the booster, unless the booster gives the feel you like - It doesn't actually increase braking capabilities, you just don't have to push as hard.
Depending on the year of your car, the tin can master cylinder might not be legal to use.
If you have a twin circuit master cylinder, you have to keep it.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nope Adam, the 998 & 1098 conrods are the same; you need a 1098 crank, and to buy 1098 pistons. (gudgeon pin in a 1098 piston is .148" higher up, to allow the extra .296" stroke)

Nicho,
I have about 3x good (uncracked, been tested) 1098 cranks up here, can ship one down there but you could find one closer.
They all need a regrind though (as s/h cranks usually do).
$100 ea plus postage.
Author:  keastmini [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
Nicho,
I have about 3x good (uncracked, been tested) 1098 cranks up here, can ship one down there but you could find one closer.
They all need a regrind though (as s/h cranks usually do).
$100 ea plus postage.


Roughly Speaking whats the cost for a regrind on them? I'm looking to do the 998 in my clubby early next year sometime and am trying to get an idea of the costs of stuff
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Last standard A series regrind I got done in Sydney was $150.
But was a year ago.....

[edit] I recently got a 1275 big journal crank ground & stroked 3mm, it cost me $300+. It's a lot more work...
Author:  69k1100 [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Let me know if you get stuck for a crank, I have one here in Adelaide (saving the other one for the other 1100k when that stage of my life comes around) we can talk, postage would be a killer (hazard a guess at 10 -15kg)

Never really had experience with cranks so I don't know what its like, journals look good, would need the passages cleaned out.

Actually I don't have much experience but someone thought it was good enough to save!
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Looks like Nicho is buying mine.

Postage isn't bad, considering the bare crank weighs 10.5kg.
Assuming packed weight is kept under 12kg, std post Sydney to Melbourne is only $22.35, for registered mail add $3.20.
Author:  Nicho [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Pm sent Dr
I can see the build coming along already. A drivable mini in my driveway before Christmas is the goal
Author:  d1ck0 [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nicho wrote:
Pm sent Dr
I can see the build coming along already. A drivable mini in my driveway before Christmas is the goal


My goal too. But in my case it isn't going to happen......

Good luck with the build. I'm doing a similar spec. 1100 +100thou Flat Tops, 12G295 head (got that one when I had the chance.....) twin SU's etc.

Cheers,

Dicko.
Author:  Phat Kat [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
adamstuart wrote:
If you have a stocko 998, you probably have a 4004 'smog' head.
This is pretty useless in stock form.


If you or anyone else has a 4004 I'll gladly pay for it
Author:  drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Phat Kat wrote:
adamstuart wrote:
If you have a stocko 998, you probably have a 4004 'smog' head.
This is pretty useless in stock form.


If you or anyone else has a 4004 I'll gladly pay for it


I've got one PK, good nick, seats unworn, has valves but no springs.

Adam they port out fine, you just have to remove more Detroit wonder metal to do it. I would start by sticking a 27mm drill down the inlet ports..
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