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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:17 pm 
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I have to move my dizzy to fit the oil pressure gauge line. So in doing this need to retime my 1275, thought while I'm at It I'll change the ignition coil. From the forum serching I've done so far looks to be the Bosch GT40 is the one to go with ? Is this correct or are there other coils out there that give better performance..

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 2:52 pm 
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It depends.
What dizzy are you running, does it have points, or an electronic module instead?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 3:26 pm 
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Electronic.. Poor pic but but can double check model tonight.. Its a 1275 from I think 89" metro

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 4:16 pm 
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Karcraft lists a specific coil for that dizzy- an RTC5628/2. It might have much less primary resistance than a Bosch GT40 coil (which is 3 ohms).

A GT40 is a sports coil used for points ignition systems, and those fitted with aftermarket ignition modules.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 4:29 pm 
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So is that coil a standard or sports coil for my dizzy. ??

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:35 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
You may never notice the extra possibilities of the coil unless your car is missing now. "Sports" coil is a evocative term, but not really linked to any specific claims. You will see this on the box as well.

A higher output coil can be had with a larger KVA output capacity, but this would require a specific high energy module fitted to the distributor, or a change in distributor. A standard module will melt. Useful on cold mornings when the voltage sags with the higher loads placed on the battery by the hard worked starter.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Ahhh I see. Thanks mick. I just got home so I'll see what coil I've got now.. I've had no probs with the coil I got now just thought if it was as simply as throwing in a "sports" coil for a little bit extra umph then I would.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:15 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
There's a few things here with a coil. It has a voltage range it is capable of sparking at. Typically from 12000 to 35,000 volts. A higher output coil can spark up to as much as 60,000 volts, but this doesn't mean it will. The spark will jump when the coil voltage rises high enough to jump the gap, and no more. So if your system isn't breaking down under load, then the coil is operating just fine within its range. This can be an advantage when the voltage is low in your car's system (cold mornings, high starter load currents) as the high voltage coils are a little more forgiving, and can make do with less.

Once the spark jumps, at that point the coil drains. Some coils have a higher capacity for charge, literally the number of electrons they can store. These literally jump the gap at time of ignition, so may result in more electrons jumping the gap in a given period, or a longer spark duration. I suppose this is what people term as a "fatter" spark. This attribute can be linked tenuously to a claim of better economy through a more positive ignition.

Downside of these coils is there is a higher current draw which will melt standard points and electronic modules. High output modules are available for our mini dizzies, and they're not expensive. I think the last one I played with was from SimonBBC as a High Energy module.

There are ignition coil output energy (KVA) comparisons out there, but I am buggered if I can find one right now. I saw it just the other week too....

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 6:30 pm 
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Sweet thanks again for the info.. The coil in there now is a unipart 520067B then F8 under that.

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