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 Post subject: POR15 or POOR15?
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:58 pm 
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This is a thread directed at POR15 users.

I have been using POR15 Black and POR15 Silver recently.

I have got to say....not happy Jan....

Firstly, the silver I purchased had been opened before, and was half solid and basicly a lumpy mess. I attempted to use it, only to make a mess of what I was painting. I complained to the supplier and promptly received a replacement tin. Brushing it on left a streaky mess. I had to wet sand it with 400 to make it half decent.

Today I sprayed some black onto a subframe. Looked great after the first coat.

After a few hours it was a bubled mess..... :x

Lots and lots of very fine bubbles.

I have seen this before, on other things I have painted with POR15, and also other peoples cars painted with POR15.

Sure it dries to a nice hard surface, but I am yet to see it look perfect straight off the gun, and as far as 'streak free application with a brush' is concerned, that is a bold claim!

So.....I ask the question to people who have used it before....

"Is it all it's claimed to be, or is it typical Yankie marketing hype?"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:57 pm 
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I have heard this before here and on MM forum, :cry: when I do the van I'm using Rust Bullet instead.
http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/Auto ... motive.htm
Yes it's available in Oz... from Volksfolks of all places. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:55 pm 
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I saw a comparison between POR-15 and one of the alternatives. The alterative did better. And was UV resistant to boot.

The main thing going for POR-15 for me was that I could get it locally instead of paying big postage $$ from the US.

It turned out smooth in the tray of the van. Very glossy. Thin coats.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:59 pm 
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is taht going straight onto bare metal?? was it prepsoled before?

maby its coming out too thick??

just my op

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:08 pm 
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I've heard that if you stir there paint to much it gets lots of air bubbles in the final finish, could be what part of your problem is... I have a mate who has restored two gorgous Camaro's and he has used Por15 for years and swears by it....

Gerg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:41 pm 
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You need to make sure that you use ALL of their prep products, normal prepsol
will give a bad finihs,

I used their product on the front subframe and floor of Leila. No where NEAR streak free. BUt maybe i should have thinned it out a bit as reccomened.... BUT by the time u buy everyting its just gets tooo expensive


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:40 am 
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czerial wrote:
You need to make sure that you use ALL of their prep products, normal prepsol
will give a bad finihs,

I used their product on the front subframe and floor of Leila. No where NEAR streak free. BUt maybe i should have thinned it out a bit as reccomened.... BUT by the time u buy everyting its just gets tooo expensive

In a discussion recently on the MM board they all said stay away from the `marine clean', that is what causes problems. It's the detergents in it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:53 am 
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Marine Clean looks, smells, and feels just like SUGAR SOAP!

I used it on a motor a while back, got it all over my hands, and I swear it is just that....sugar soap!

The stuff I painted yesterday was pure bare metal. I did NOT use the marine clean or metal ready, as I believe that stuff is marketing hype.

The POR15 bubbled before it dried. I have a feeling it might be something to do with moisture? Doesn't it draw moisture from the surface while curing? Or maybe I put too much on :( Too heavy coat?

The only good thing I observed was applying a top coat colour while the POR15 was still tacky. I sprayed satin black over it, and this dried WITH the POR15, which seems to have given a rock hard finish, in the colour I wanted, not the gloss black out of the can.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:12 am 
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I have seen good results using the full banana on new metal. I have not spoken to anybody that has had a good finish on old panels. The difference between

Given required level of perfection I would use a "standard" method prep and paint.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:17 am 
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oh by the way......while spraying the POR15 I got overspray on my face of all places.

I didn't realise until I hit the shower last night.

:shock:

Do you reckon I could get it off!! :lol:

I have a spotty face for a few days now I guess.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:32 am 
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With the bubbles, you didn't shake the tin did you? it says not to shake it and stir it instead to avoid bubbles.

I have not tried spraying por15 but brushing it on was magic...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:54 am 
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When I overcoated with primer before the POR-15 had completely dried, I would get bubbles where the primer was more than just a light dusting.

So I think it may give off a gas as it dries. The primer was keeping the gas in and causing it to bubble.

This could also cause bubbles if the coats are too thick or maybe if it is drying to quickly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:54 am 
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I noticed that if I did a heavy coat of it the paint would be slightly bubbley. Best to do 2 thin coats of it I think. I also re-read the instructions again and noticed that it said not to brush over too many times where you have already applied it.

I think its one of those paints where you have to get all the prep done perfectly and also follow all the instructions to a tee.

Why didn't you use the metal ready or did you use deoxidine instead?

I thought about spraying the stuff but after I got some on my hands and it took over a week for it to come off I thought its best not to look like a dalmation if I got some overspray on me!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:05 am 
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You have to meticulously follow the instructions - I have used it for 4 years now and nil problems with it. If it is too humid it will bubble - not only draws moisture from your work but also the air - I always do mine at night in the cool of the evening.

If you run the brush on the edge of the canted container, it "foams" so this also contributes to the bubbled effect(dip the brush and let it drip then apply to the work). As for the marine clean, it is a cleaner...nothing more - gets rid of the gunk and grease off your work. Yes it is predominantly a degreaser but to remove the detergents, you MUST(!!!) use the POR metal prep prior to the POR15 otherwise it will not stick.

I empathise with you GT - sprayed a subframe and the wind changed - blew it straight back onto my face...was like that for a week!!!

Just my 2 bobs worth

Hooroo

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:26 am 
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GT wrote:
oh by the way......while spraying the POR15 I got overspray on my face of all places.

I didn't realise until I hit the shower last night.

:shock:

Do you reckon I could get it off!! :lol:

I have a spotty face for a few days now I guess.


better that, than on your hootus.. :P

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